In the market for a slitting saw and arbor.

I'm thinking of making one myself since the factory one I have has a little too much runout.

I may want to put in a keyway slot though to prevent slipping. Thoughts?

Can you get keyed cutters?
 
All my slitting saws are keyed and have a 1" arbor hole.
 
I'm thinking of making one myself since the factory one I have has a little too much runout.

I may want to put in a keyway slot though to prevent slipping. Thoughts?
I find that just making the bolt at the end big enough to tighten makes the keyway unnecessary. BUT, an endmill can cut a keyway, then you can put a key in however you want! I'd suggest leaving it removable, since I've found that the key size on slitting saws isn't consistent. That way you can remove the key and grind it smaller for some slitting saws.
 
Very nice! I see you have no keyway. Do you have issues with the blade slipping?
 
No issues with slipping using a 2.75" dia. x .025 fine tooth blade. Used to cut brass and fiberglass
My blades don't have keys, I think they are Polish, from Toolmex
-Mark
 
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If you want to buy one, Sierra American makes good ones. If you want to make one, Stefan G has a good video on it.

You don't need a key, I have never had a saw slip when used properly.
 
I have a few good saws, B&S etc., but I use a Chinport arbor with lots of play in the saw bore. It's okay, I center the saw up with a good eyeball and it's perfect. If I ever need another, I'll just make one.
 
/I bought the cheapest I could find set of 3 sizes of China arbors 20 plus years ago. 1", 7/8" and 5/8" arbors, I have a 1/8 X 4" cutter on the 1" arbor and that has never slipped in AL steel or titanium. I recently bought some real thin saws 0.010 thick for a part and they had no problem cutting the Titanium and left a beautiful surface finish .
I never measured them for run out or squareness but there is no visible blade wobble when running and I always get the expected width of cuts.
 
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