Is hand scraping a bench top mill worth the money?

[ArtJ]

Any thoughts regarding spending the extra money to get a bench top mill hand scrapped? The dove tail ways for the saddle on my Taiwan built machine leaves a lot to be desired.
I have called and talked with Dans Machine Tool in Anaheim California. They can and will do the work for an estimated $3200 and about 4 weeks time.

To be clear, if I had the room I would have purchased a Bridgeport, but I don’t so I bought a new Taiwan manufactured bench mill.
Yes, I will only be doing hobby type work with it but……….

Thanks for your input

Art

 

[cross thread]

I know Dan's , IMO hobby people should not deal with them . They are honest people but they charge big time . I would sell your machine (if is that bad) , take that money plus your 3,200 . And get something new , like this . https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=6750&category=1387807683
Or this . https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=6550&category=1387807683

 

[matthewsx]

Is this another new machine that’s being evaluated with “measurement”?

If so I would encourage you to make some parts and see if you can get the results you need.

In another thread the OP was talking about spindle runout. Most of us are happy if we can make parts to .001 precision. With a manual machine it’s more likely the operator that will be a limitation.

But as for your question the answer is no. If you need this done it can be done in your shop with simple tools and patience. And, you’ll learn a lot along the way.

John

 

[tq60]

Or, sign up for one of Richard's classes and do it yourself.

Take your saddle as your project, pit it in checked baggage.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[markba633csi]

Unfortunately the expert on this subject was just banned from the ranch, I don't know the details
-M

 

[markba633csi]

Did you just buy this milling machine or have you had it for a while and are just now finding it's flaws?
If the former I would return it for a refund- call your CC company, tell them you are not satisfied
-M

 

[7milesup]

The bubble is biased towards the front of the mill in both pictures. I am guessing it is on opposite sides of the machine, and if so, the machine isn't level. Maybe I am misreading it. Did you calibrate your level?

 

[benmychree]

If leveling is OK when not bolted down, and is distorted when bolted down, the problem is with distortion due to not being shimmed to eliminate the distortion, spending that amount of money on rescraping, which is likely not needed is a waste of money on a machine that is possibly not worth the investment.

 

[ArtJ]

Is this another new machine that’s being evaluated with “measurement”?

If so I would encourage you to make some parts and see if you can get the results you need.

In another thread the OP was talking about spindle runout. Most of us are happy if we can make parts to .001 precision. With a manual machine it’s more likely the operator that will be a limitation.

But as for your question the answer is no. If you need this done it can be done in your shop with simple tools and patience. And, you’ll learn a lot along the way.

John

John,

yes

I ran a test piece and each pass with a 5/8 end mill left ridges with each pass. Yes the nod is off about .0025 over 8 inches but then the head is off in the opposite direction by .0017 and there is only one spot on the dovetail ways where the table is level (towards the column) Moving out raises the table about .0025 inches.

yeah, I could learn a whole new skill set.

I appreciate your comments.

Art

Or, sign up for one of Richard's classes and do it yourself.

Take your saddle as your project, pit it in checked baggage.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[ArtJ]

The bubble is biased towards the front of the mill in both pictures. I am guessing it is on opposite sides of the machine, and if so, the machine isn't level. Maybe I am misreading it. Did you calibrate your level?

Table top is level in X and Y.