Is it possible, and is it safe

Another spring information source, Sacramento Spring.
Jeff is correct. Sac Spring works are the good guys. I did tons of work with them over the years for the County and for the International truck dealer on all kinds of springs, from tiny ones to huge construction equipment stuff. They really know their stuff, and are helpful and friendly. They also do lots of custom work for car buffs.
 
Might it be easier to rework the wheel wells? Going by the picture I assume the WW's are already Tub'd to fit the fat slicks and massaging them a bit to get the 1/2 clearance back will probably be less work and cheaper then the choices in the OP.
 
They make zero rate blocks (something like that). Like a lift block, but only 1/2 to 1" tall, but has the pin, and hole off set from each other, to move the axle placement.
 
Well, it seems like a goofy design. Wouldn't it be better to get standard non-split leafs? Or is it leaves? LOL
mark
 
any modifications I made to a set up like that would always be in my mind..."is this the time something breaks?".....I just wouldnt. Peace of mind is worth a lot more to me....
 
Why wouldn't you drill an offset dowel pin hole in your spring perch pad and the u-bolt plate? That's what I've always done with leaf spring vehicles to shift axles forward or back. It won't make a lick of difference to the spring pack. Of course, for a drag car I'd want a 4-link system unless class rules forbid it.
 
Well, it seems like a goofy design. Wouldn't it be better to get standard non-split leafs? Or is it leaves? LOL
mark

Of course leaves is plural for leaf but for leaf springs, since leaf is the type of spring I've always called them leafs. :)
 
We called them "shifter plates".......an offset, and sometimes tapered plate to correct such problems. I used to do a lot on 4 WD's with lift kits to get the correct geometry for the drive line.
One thing you do not want to overlook is the drive shaft length once you change spring position. If you are moving it closer to the transmission, make sure it does not bottom out in the slider yoke.
 
Thank you everybody, waiting for the call back from the spring company. Some good suggestions thank you. This is primarily a street cruiser.
 
Drill the spring perch to move the axle back. If that doesn't leave you enough perch sticking out on the other side , just weld a half inch plate to the bottom of the perch to give you more "perch-ass".
 
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