Isopropyl & Dry Ice Cooling Bath for Bearings

macardoso

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H-M Supporter - Silver Member
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Been working on a spindle shaft project and thought I'd share a neat trick I "invented" (apparently everyone's been doing this, I just never heard of it).

I designed and machined a simple spindle shaft for the upper bearing section of my G0704 CNC mill - the stock one could not be modified to manage the spindle speeds I am running. Part of the design are some interference fit bearing seats in the ISO "m5" fit. For the 25mm and 30mm bearing seats, this results in a 0.0008" to 0.0012" interference fit. I don't own a press and I wanted to be delicate with the install. I did the math and figured out a thermal shrink would give me a hand installed fit, if I could get the temp difference enough. Steel has a CTE of roughly 0.0000065 in/in/*F so simply heating the bearing to its max temp of 250*F wouldn't accomplish the fit, I needed something closer to 325+*F temperature difference.

To get enough clearance, I used a 99% isopropyl alcohol and dry ice bath to shrink the shaft. This cooling bath can be made from things readily available at home. In my case, a vacuum insulated coffee mug, the alcohol, and some store bought dry ice. A Styrofoam container can also be used. The bath takes a bit of time to get down to temperature, but once it does, it settles at a whopping -120*F. At these temps the alcohol becomes viscous like a thin maple syrup which is pretty wild.

With the bearing baked in the oven to 250*F and the shaft at -120*F (waited about an hour for both items to settle on temp), the bearing slipped on by hand with no issue and firmly shrunk to the shaft.

The only drawback is that the isopropyl bath is very effective at stripping all of the oil from your parts, so you need to quickly apply a fresh protective oil or the shaft will flash rust.

Here's a section of the shaft drawing showing all the bearing seats. Yes, I hit all the tolerances on my lathe - no grinding - on my first go. Was pretty proud of that.

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Shaft, two bearings, two helical snap rings (balanced for high speed), and a plastic install tool for the 30mm snap ring.

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Shaft chilling in the dry ice bath. Dry ice sinks in the alcohol so I have one chunk below the part, and one resting above the part. When the bubbles slow to a very gentle bubbling, the part is at temperature.

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And the bearing installed. I didn't do the smaller bearing yet because there is an end machining operation left to do.

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Nicely done, So you applied the oil to shaft right after removing it from the cold bath and before dropping the bearing on? Or right after dropping the bearing?
 
What precision and what clearance are the bearings? With that tight of a fit on the bore, is the outer a slip fit to give the bearing room to expand when heated while running? Dave
 
that's very neat and fabulous machining. If you have a welding supply company or industrial gas distributor near you a jug of liquid nitrogen works very well too. Plus you can either make ice cream or play "liquid nitrogen table hockey" with it afterwards.
 
Nicely done, So you applied the oil to shaft right after removing it from the cold bath and before dropping the bearing on? Or right after dropping the bearing?

Oiled up after bearing was shrunk on. I suppose you could do an oil/dry ice bath too if you could find an oil that wouldn't solidify. Would be a mess though!

What precision and what clearance are the bearings? With that tight of a fit on the bore, is the outer a slip fit to give the bearing room to expand when heated while running? Dave

These bearings are 6007ZZ deep groove radial ball bearings with ISO Group N (CN) internal clearance. Still working on the housing but aiming for ISO "H6" seats in the housing. These should be a tight clearance fit, retained by an internal helical snap ring for axial location.

that's very neat and fabulous machining. If you have a welding supply company or industrial gas distributor near you a jug of liquid nitrogen works very well too. Plus you can either make ice cream or play "liquid nitrogen table hockey" with it afterwards.

Thanks! I was actually surprised how little headache I had getting the desired tolerances. Worst part was waiting overnight after roughing to get the steel back to ambient before doing the fine finishing. I use VCMT H01-AK aluminum specific ground inserts for the finish. They're wicked sharp and let you take the final dimension at <0.001" DOC on diameter without rubbing. Did the 3 pass method with roughly 0.005" stock to leave.

Apparently my lathe is leveled fairly well as I cut the entire mid section to the bearing seat diameter, then added the grooves and reduced diameters. The taper was 0.00010"/2" or there about.

Liquid nitrogen is a great method, but I found the dry ice to be very accessible. Bought mine at the grocery store for $2.50/lb. Only needed <1lb.
 
Ever try acetone in place of the alcohol? Apparently evaporates faster than alcohol. This is heresy from an old German toolmaker at a previous employer.
 
Ever try acetone in place of the alcohol? Apparently evaporates faster than alcohol. This is heresy from an old German toolmaker at a previous employer.
An acetone/dry ice bath and an isopropyl alcohol/dry ice bath will reach the same temperature. Which you use will depend on the compatibility of the part you're cooling. Isopropyl alcohol may provide a bit more of a barrier to flash rusting as the parts warm up due to the slower evaporation rate.
 
hat's very neat and fabulous machining. If you have a welding supply company or industrial gas distributor near you a jug of liquid nitrogen works very well too. Plus you can either make ice cream or play "liquid nitrogen table hockey" with it afterwards.
A decent dewar for liquid nitrogen will cost some money. A styrofoam cooler will work to hold it but may cause issues with the supplier. Either way you don't want it to spill in your car as it will displace the air. I used a pickup to haul it. Last I filled my dewar (several years ago), the liquid nitrogen was > $3/L for 20 liters.
 
Never tried any of these methods before, but was surprised how easy and effective it was.
 
Can you explain why you went with an m5 and m6 fits on these bearing seats? That is awfully tight for a CN clearance bearing and not normally needed when there is not high vibration. What is the bore on your spindle? It looks like it is in the 20mm range?
 
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