Just a simple lathe chuck key.......

brino

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Hi All,

I picked up this well used and dirty 10 inch lathe chuck over the summer after seeing it in a kijiji ad.

chuck.jpg

It will NOT fit my lathe, but for $40 I figured I could find something to do with it (weld positioner, or even just a bench vise) or worst case trade it in for at least that value at my local used tool store.

I was thinking about finally cleaning it up and realized that I did NOT even have a key to take the jaws out......okay, so the chuck key _IS_ the next project.
(Sure I could likely buy one quicker and fairly cheap, but I have some time off and want to be in my shop!)

I did NOT photograph all the steps, but here's how it turned out:
chuck_key1.jpg

I got to use the lathe (including taper turning with the compound and my @Ulma Doctor inspired tool post cross-drill tool) the mill (with both square and hex collet blocks), and of course all the usual drill press, vise and files, etc.

The square end is about 0.580 inch across flats and it fits the chuck perfectly; with the chuck face-up on the bench the key doesn't fall out.
I put a hex on the back end so the I could drive it with a 3/4" socket in a drill for quick jaw removal.

I'll throw in some more photos below.
I had fun making it; there's no time like shop time!

-brino

Here's the raw stock it was made from:
raw_stock.jpg

The square end:
square.jpg

The hex end:
hex.jpg

I decided on a detent to keep the handle from falling out, yet be able to offset it and remove it when I drive it with a cordless drill and socket:
detent1.jpg

Detent parts (note the spring actually goes between the "button" and the set-screw):
detent2.jpg

the chuck key hole:
key_hole.jpg

...and the fit:
inserted.jpg
 
Nice, I especially like the idea of putting a 3/4" hex on the end.....I see a project in my future!
 
Well done Brino, good work!
but my neurons are not flying fast today and can not figure when and why would you want to drive it by the hex end?
 
Very nice work Brino. Just echoing others, great idea on the hex end (never thought of that) & the pin detent. :eagerness:
 
my neurons are not flying fast today and can not figure when and why would you want to drive it by the hex end?

I started thinking about how many turns it would take to pull the jaws out for cleaning, and then again for fitting/testing, and then again when I realize that they wont meet in the centre because I had them in the wrong slots, and once more because I forgot to lube them the first few times........I figured to speed this up I'd use a 3/4" socket driven by a cordless drill.

Really, I guess it's just being lazy!

-brino
 
I started thinking about how many turns it would take to pull the jaws out for cleaning, and then again for fitting/testing, and then again when I realize that they wont meet in the centre because I had them in the wrong slots, and once more because I forgot to lube them the first few times........I figured to speed this up I'd use a 3/4" socket driven by a cordless drill.

Really, I guess it's just being lazy!

-brino

I do the same! :D I have 10mm & 12mm square drive drain plug "sockets" for some of my chucks.

I also use the cordless drill when flipping top jaws. 3-jaw not so bad but much quicker when doing it on the 6-jaw.

Great idea to put the hex on the key. I'm lazy often but I never tell anyone, just say you are working smarter not harder! ;)
 
a couple more photos......

The "new" chuck has a huge (to me) 4-3/4" threaded mount.
chuck_back.jpg

and here's how it look after the first-pass cleaning of the outside:
first_layer.jpg

It is a US made Skinner model 3410-M that looks like someone has used as an anvil :mad:

mfg.jpg

My intent is to take it apart for a thorough cleaning and re-lube........

-brino
 
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