Kent vs Victor lathe

The quote I got on the 1740E victor includes a 8" 3 jaw, steady and follow rest.The Kent 1740 has the 3.125" spindle and a 10" 3 jaw, steady and follow rest. . I will have to purchase the PP and a DRO so I will be in for another $4k. This will be a big purchase for me so I am taking my time and asking questions. I really appreciate every ones input and hope to get more of it.
 
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As pointed out above, on these medium size lathes, HP is not an issue. I’m on the small end with a 5hp, 15” lathe and it is hard to actually load it up to the motor limit - usually there is going to be some other constraints (how large the part is, capability of the tooling, etc). What I like to see on a lathe is a slow bottom end. For the size machine you are looking at, I’d want 30 rpm (or slower). It is not about needing lots of torque, sometimes you just need to crawl along.

Example: I was cutting a 21” dia wheel in the gap on my 15” lathe - that is a surface speed of nearly 250 ft/min in my slowest speed, 45 rpm. The tooling did not last long, fortunately the job did not take long, so all worked out fine. Another example is if you are threading to a shoulder or you want to do ramp out threads - slow is your friend. My 11” S&B lathe will go down to 30 rpm (shift on the fly), that is a very nice feature.

Of course if you go the VFD option, then you will get a very low bottom speed and the ability to dial it down while cutting (i.e. To snuggle a thread up to a shoulder).

As pointed out above, the top end speed is probably not a big deal. My 15” lathe has a top speed of 2000, that gets used about once per year (so nice to have, but very easy to work around). That lathe has 16 speed selections - I do 95% of the work on my 3 favourite speeds. A “some day” project is to change the sheaves so the input shaft is about 75% of the present value (I guess after owning the machine 40 years it probably won’t happen). Installing a VFD would be a good option. A 3rd option is to buy another lathe - which is what I did (have two small lathes that will go slower).

Part of the point here is that it is hard to get every feature you may want in one machine. There is much kidding here in these discussion groups about buying more tools, more machines etc, but it is somewhat valid because you can get different features and capabilities. Get a good lathe (all the ones you have discussed are good), but don’t over analyze it, the perfect machine does not exist.
 
I believe the economy versions of these lathes are form mainland China, the higher end models are Taiwanese manufactired.
That is a nice machine.

The two speed tail stock and pull out chip tray are really interesting features.
 
In looking at the specs, it is clear that for a small shop/hobbyist the ML is better value than the MLX. No need for the extra HP, D1-8 is a big downside.

The Kent doesn't include things that I would consider adding if buying it:
4 jaw chuck
DRO - optional, but very handy. Makes having to remember stuff go away for the most part.
 
Are you buying a phase perfect and a vfd controlled lathe or one vs the other? Dave
 
Wish I was looking at any of these.

If it were me I’d make a list of all the things your current lathe doesn’t do and choose the one that does the most of that.

John
 
Not true. You won't notice any difference at all until > 90 Hz, where you have a 20% drop in torque.


My LeBlond has a 3.125, very handy. But I bought mine used, for very few dollars, so it wasn't a factor in choosing it.

here's a pic of mine:

You may not notice a difference but it is there. Metal removal depends on both torque and horsepower. A 5 hp 1800 rpm motor delivers 14.6 ft lbs of torque. If a vfd controlled lathe is running at 30 hz and delivering a spindle speed of 900, hp is 2.5 and torque is 14.6. That same motor in a geared lathe running a spindle at 900 will deliver 5 hp and 29.2 lbs of torque. There is no way the two are equal. Whether that is important is another question but the difference is real. Dave
 
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