Lathe gearbox lubrication

Maybe I'm just a foolish newbie, but I bought Mobile DTE Light (ISO 32) lubricating oil for my Tida built TD-1236E. From my research, lubrication oils are different from hydraulic oils, but I don't know how different.

 
That's why a lube schedule specs by product, not by viscosity. Typically, when I hear ISO 68 I'm thinking DTE 26 or Tellus 68 hydraulic oil. That is, no EP additives. When EP is called for, it is called for by name, as in XP68. Both make great gear oils, but one will eat up yellow metal bushings and one won't. If you want to get really confused, try to figure out which oil from Hangsterfer's has EP in it... they tend to refer to yellow metal eating tendencies by temperature instead of by additive, and they won't tell you which is which unless you call their customer support with an order for a thousand gallon tote. You can't regulate an oil company or require to disclose their "proprietary" products in this society. Which is why you always consult the lube schedule!
 
rficalora said:
Thanks John. Do the oiling holes in the top of the gearbox have felt wicks in them?
Click to expand...
Not sure if there are wicks in there but it would explain how little oil I can get in before it overflows.
 
Nesse1 said:
Maybe I'm just a foolish newbie, but I bought Mobile DTE Light (ISO 32) lubricating oil for my Tida built TD-1236E. From my research, lubrication oils are different from hydraulic oils, but I don't know how different.

Click to expand...
I also did a bunch of research before going with the VP tractor oil. Hydraulic systems need to be lubricated, the pumps are basically gears.

27545564_334894563660646_1398589671203387757_n.jpeg


I too bought expensive oil in small quantities for my first lathe, there's nothing wrong with that. But, when you look at almost any other lubrication application, hobby use of manual lathes is pretty light duty.

I also used to run a racing kart engine business, so I've heard a lot about why one oil is better than another. I finally just started telling my customers "use the right ammount of oil and change it frequently". I have seen oil caused failures but only when incompatible products are mixed together.

As others have said, the most important thing is to avoid "anti-wear" additives that could eat brass or bronze.

John
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top