Learning the Craftsman 101.07301 lathe.

[wa5cab]

Over the years, many people have made the same comments about carbide versus HSS but in the past 40+ years, I have used almost nothing but carbide. However, I use inserts almost all of the time. And regrind brazed carbide for special purpose cutters like for breaking shart edges, ID or OD beveling, corner rounding and the like

 

[Grinderman]

For the turning I do which is mostly aluminum brass and mild steel, I see no reason for carbide. I would much rather spend the $5-$10 you have to pay for a quality insert and buy a HSS tool blank that can be shaped and sharpened for years. Being a retired hobby machinist, I have more time than money so it's an easy choice for me, but to each his own.

 

[LX Kid]

I have a bunch of SNMG carbide inserts that I had used in my South Bend. Now after selling it I don't have a tool bit holder that will fit my OXA 250 with it's 1/2" max tool capability. Does anyone know if they even make a 1/2" shank for these bits? I've looked around and doesn't seem to be any shanks in the !/2". Is it advisable to mill down a 5/8" shank tool holder to be able to use it in my OXA 250?

 

[cross thread]

What's 1/8 amongst friends ?

 

[LX Kid]

First cuts trying to cut 18x1/2" threads. Before I could try I had to make a couple of 1/2"x1/4" inserts that fit into the inside of the gears to fit the 1/4" mounting bolts to the banjo. I couldn't find a 18x1/2 nut to see how it fit. The threads are kinda rough, like a "corn cob", but I guess you could call them threads. I used a new carbide insert, which at low speed was not the best choice. Next try I'll use tool steel cutter. Used file to flatten out the tops as they were sharp and a steel brushed them
.

 

[Cadillac STS]

Definitely mill the holder down to 1/2 inch to fit your OXA 250 tool post. It will be plenty strong and you can use the carbide cutters you have for it.

 

[LX Kid]

Found a little problem with my thread dial which is probably why my practice thread didn't work so well. I was trying to engage right on the indicator but due to wear on the lead screw it would always jump before or after the line. I made a new mark on the housing, about 3/32" to the right and now am able to lock it on every time. When I get a chance I'll try again to get a better thread. I also now have thread wires to check the width and depth of the threads.

 

[LX Kid]

I ordered some SS screws, 10-32, to replace the "cross slide" screw with hex head instead of slotted. I also have hex head SS screws, 8-32, for the "compound slide." I'll use my tool post grinder, home made, to put a proper tip on the ends of the screws.

Side note: I really regret selling my SB 9A lathe. I may even offer to buy it back because has some medical problems that gives him no time to set it up and start learning to use it. It still sits on his garage floor for the last month. I think I sold it, restored, way to cheap. $2500.

 

[LX Kid]

Learned something from "Blondihacks" on Youboob about parting tools. I did not know that my parting tool had a top and bottom! My blade was in upside down and had some trouble parting. LoL Reground the blade relief angles and turned it up correctly and wow did it cut nicely. "Dumber than dirt!"

 

[LX Kid]

I'm starting to think there may be a Mathews Precision MP-1022 in my near future. I'm weighing my "wants and needs" decision for a new lathe when I don't really have a purpose of use. It's nothing but a play toy in my late years of retirement. (Of what's left of it!) I wish I had not sold my South Bend 9A about 1-1/2 months ago. I could probably buy if back as it's just sitting on the floor of his garage. He also wanted to play in his retirement but I don't think he will ever use it. I think new lathe might be better lathe!