Lenox Diemaster 2 bimetal blades

rwm said:
I have thought about soldering my own blades from a coil. When I looked pricing, it did not really seem like a bargain. Am I correct on this?
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according to this site, a Lenox bimetal blade in coil bulk would work out to about 16 dollars a blade for a HF 47" style bandsaw.
vs what it would cost from bandsawdirect for the same blade at 29 dollars

*these are rounded up numbers*
 
I just ordered Lenox blades from LA blades for 21.80 shipped, not bad I thought. Ordered various TPI's, which I couldn't do with the bulk idea and what's my time worth?
 
frugalguido said:
64.5" x .5 for the 4x6"
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the reason I asked is that I have the new diemaster blades in 1" and wider. sorry I don't have the 1/2" by 64.5 for you. the best reason for learning to silver solder blades, is in case you break a blade, that you can fix it quickly. also if you want to cut from inside a hole--just cut a blade--feed it through the hole and silver solder the ends together again. I have bought many longer new blades odd size lengths for a couple dollars and can make several shorter blades from them. I am never out of blades.
Dave
 
Dave Smith said:
the reason I asked is that I have the new diemaster blades in 1" and wider. sorry I don't have the 1/2" by 64.5 for you. the best reason for learning to silver solder blades, is in case you break a blade, that you can fix it quickly. also if you want to cut from inside a hole--just cut a blade--feed it through the hole and silver solder the ends together again. I have bought many longer new blades odd size lengths for a couple dollars and can make several shorter blades from them. I am never out of blades.
Dave
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Good idea to learn to do this. So I would imagine that you have a jig to hold the blades for soldering.
 
How is it that I have never, ever broken a blade in my vertical bandsaw? I lose teeth routinely but never had a band fail. I must be doing something wrong?
I wonder if it is the flexing/twisting in the horizontal bandsaws?
 
frugalguido said:
Good idea to learn to do this. So I would imagine that you have a jig to hold the blades for soldering.
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I made a jig using a 6 inch long piece of 1 1/2" square tubing--milled a long slot for blade and milled a small cross slot under the joint to solder. I use c clamp vise grips to hold blades straight in place. very simple but works good.
Dave
 
Dave Smith said:
I made a jig using a 6 inch long piece of 1 1/2" square tubing--milled a long slot for blade and milled a small cross slot under the joint to solder. I use c clamp vise grips to hold blades straight in place. very simple but works good.
Dave
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Sounds pretty simple then.
 
The math for my saw with a 12' blade works out to about $42 per blade and then I have to weld them. I think I last paid $52 per so for me that is a tough call. Is it worth $10 to get a welded blade vs me soldering it?
 
rwm said:
The math for my saw with a 12' blade works out to about $42 per blade and then I have to weld them. I think I last paid $52 per so for me that is a tough call. Is it worth $10 to get a welded blade vs me soldering it?
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is your 12' blade 1/2" width and for metal or wood? my vertical metal bandsaw takes a 140" blade. what make is your vertical saw? my Parks A87 vintage woodworking machine might take a 12' or 12.5' blade. it's just nice to know that you can buy a longer blade at a bargain price and then adapt it for your saws.
Dave
 
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