- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,607
Looks great and must be gratifying after the long way around. . . Bet you're building up your arm with all that hand cranking on that massive rotary table to boot!
Bruce
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Long way around...
- Thread starter RossB
- Start date
Bruce
- Joined
- May 16, 2016
- Messages
- 1,698
120 lbs! Kinda sucks for carrying around the garage.
You could bore some decent size holes in the top and bottom plates, make it lighter without losing strength or usefulness.
I went as low as I dared and then flipped the bar. I suppose that I could've put spacers under it and made all my cuts without moving it, but then the reference pin on the RT wouldn't have reached the bar stock. Live and learn I guess.
Not perfect. There are definitely some tool marks that I can't explain, but the radius is good.
Not perfect. There are definitely some tool marks that I can't explain, but the radius is good.
I cleaned them up a little on the belt sander and now I'm waiting for a 7/8" drill bit to enlarge those holes. I'd really like to put a 1/8" radius on all the edges, but I'm not sure what the best tool for that job would be...
Suggestions?
I'm pretty sure that my Porter Cable router is NOT up to that task.
Suggestions?
I'm pretty sure that my Porter Cable router is NOT up to that task.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2014
- Messages
- 2,607
You could use an 1/8" corner rounding end mill, looks like a corner rounding router bit with no ball bearing at the center. It'd be a piece of cake with your set up on the rotary table. I've got a link to one from Penn Tool Co. below, $9 plus shipping.
I'd move off in the X and creep the tool into the work. Adjust your Z until the tool is a touch short of the 1/8" depth. Go too far and you'll get a ridge on the part. Then rotate your table to cut the rad around the radius. I'd think with this minimal depth of cut, you could pull your clamps on one side of the part and run along the X. Replace the clamps, pull from the opposite side and repeat. I like how you think, the 1/8" radius would be a nice touch on the part.
Bruce
I'd move off in the X and creep the tool into the work. Adjust your Z until the tool is a touch short of the 1/8" depth. Go too far and you'll get a ridge on the part. Then rotate your table to cut the rad around the radius. I'd think with this minimal depth of cut, you could pull your clamps on one side of the part and run along the X. Replace the clamps, pull from the opposite side and repeat. I like how you think, the 1/8" radius would be a nice touch on the part.
Bruce
