Looking at a SF m1018

[better-lathe-than-never]

I'm looking for a bench top lathe for my garage shop and came across Shop Fox lathe/mill combo locally - it's m1018 from 2014, I believe. What are some things to look at on a machine like that (besides the bedways wear and lead screw condition)?

I've never done machining, but have a lot of tooling passed on from my late father and want to put them to good use. He left me both milling bits and high speed cutting tools for the lathe as well as a lot of parallels, 1-2-3 blocks, micrometers, etc.

I understand the combos aren't as good as individual machines but I'm thinking for a newbie like me this may be a good start. Thoughts?

 

[markba633csi]

Some folks like 'em, many don't. The ones with the mill portion attached about halfway down the lathe bed are the best.
The ones with the mill head right over the lathe headstock are difficult because the mill head is always in the way, is limited in swing and reach, and they often share the same motor which can be a real pain.
The idea is great, but the execution often sucks. A lathe is not a milling machine; the carriage is designed to hold cutting tools, not workpieces of any size.
Also, the quality can be pretty poor. Smithy has a pretty good reputation though. I would avoid Shop Fox, Bolton and the rest.
Even the smallest of individual machines can do more than these combo gadgets. Plus you can upgrade one or the other separately.
Save your ducats and buy a decent import lathe from Grizzly or Precision Mathews, or perhaps a good used Atlas, then keep looking for a small milling machine to show up. Buy the best possible machines you can to start with, you'll be much happier.
Also, this time of year the selection of used machines can be lean
-M

 

[Mitch Alsup]

98% of us would rather a lathe and a mill as separate machines.
We don't know enough about you and your interests to decide if you are in the 98% or in the 2%.

In general combination lathe/mills are seriously compromised as a lathe and again as a mill.
As a lathe there is the small work envelope.
As a mill there is scant X-Y motions, and zero Z motions (other than the quill.) {Hint: quills are for drilling not milling}

 

[matthewsx]

We have another member on here who is convinced they need a combo machine. Maybe reach out and see if it makes sense for you to grab this one and pick up a decent lathe near them....

John

 

[better-lathe-than-never]

zero Z motions (other than the quill.) {Hint: quills are for drilling not milling}

Right... I didn't realize that... that's a drawback.

I figured that having some capability for milling would be more beneficial for me than not having any ability to mill anything at all... though I do have a large pedestal drill which I suppose could masquerade as a mill for very light work but I'm sure it would be even worse for this task.

 

[matthewsx]

Get a capable lathe first. You will be amazed how many "milling" functions can be done on a lathe with a 4 jaw chuck. There are also milling attachments, generally not great but better to have a good lathe and suffer with one than to have a machine that does neither function well.

My dad built an airplane in the 1960's and he told me that he wanted a Bridgeport but couldn't afford/justify one so he used a disk sander.

If you don't have projects right now that require a milling machine I would definitely recommend getting a decent lathe and learning how to run that first. There's much to learn and many skills will transfer directly to milling.

JMHO,

John

 

[better-lathe-than-never]

Get a capable lathe first.

Been going in circles on that for a while now - don't wanna spend a ton of money on a machine (around $1,500 would be ideal). Could this one be considered a capable one? https://denver.craigslist.org/tls/d/castle-rock-craftsman-metal-lathe/7383167575.html

Last time I looked at an older Atlas (without quick change gears) it rattled like a tin-can. It had its bed ways badly worn, so I walked away. I just don't know what they should sound like when they're running right without some practice and with a good sharp cutter, not a piece of crap that the owner scrounged up for me last minute...

 

[Janderso]

Get a capable lathe first. You will be amazed how many "milling" functions can be done on a lathe with a 4 jaw chuck

So true. With a face plate and a 4 jaw chuck you can do many creative milling operations.

 

[matthewsx]

Been going in circles on that for a while now - don't wanna spend a ton of money on a machine (around $1,500 would be ideal). Could this one be considered a capable one? https://denver.craigslist.org/tls/d/castle-rock-craftsman-metal-lathe/7383167575.html

Last time I looked at an older Atlas (without quick change gears) it rattled like a tin-can. It had its bed ways badly worn, so I walked away. I just don't know what they should sound like when they're running right without some practice and with a good sharp cutter, not a piece of crap that the owner scrounged up for me last minute...

Would be good at half that price if it's all there and not worn out.

 

[better-lathe-than-never]

Would be good at half that price if it's all there and not worn out.

Worn out ones start at $1,200 and go up, around here.... Crazy world