Looking at this Bridgeport that is FAR away

joec2000 said:
1. It is not in a well-lit location, but there *might* be some *very light* surface rust on the ways - could also just be dirty. Seller says it hasn't been used for a few years. Is that cause for concern?
2. Turning the X axis handle on the left side does not result in the table moving. The right side X axis handle seems to move the table just fine and it feels like there is relatively minimal backlash. Any idea what might be causing that?
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A flashlight will answer your question about the rust. If it is surface rust, I would not worry about it. Chances are it might even come off with a rag and some oil. I would be more concerned about moving that Y-axis with the ways exposed, thus grinding dust and the possible rust into the way even further.
The left X-axis handle not moving the table is a little of a head-scratcher for me. Maybe other guys have insight into that. Maybe a spring pin fell out? I dunno. You say that there is minimal backlash, which is great, and whatever is causing the issue with the left-handwheel can most likely be easily remedied.
I think that mill looks really nice. The price seems cheap to me but again, the locale has a lot to do with it. A new knee mill that is made in Taiwan from Precision Matthews for example will cost you three times what this one costs. Personally, I would buy it.
 
The seller on mine had also removed the key (I assume) from the left wheel. They told me they disabled intentionally too, but I didn’t ask why. I haven’t look at it year as I have a power feed and mostly work from the right side. I’m not sure why they do this. I’d like to hear from others why.
 
joec2000 said:
Alright, I think I am gonna pull the trigger on this one. Now to figure out how to move it... I'll spin up a new thread for that one. Thanks for all of your help, advice and sanity checking, everyone!
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Looking forward to being part of your journey.
 
Gaffer said:
The seller on mine had also removed the key (I assume) from the left wheel. They told me they disabled intentionally too, but I didn’t ask why. I haven’t look at it year as I have a power feed and mostly work from the right side. I’m not sure why they do this. I’d like to hear from others why.
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With power feed I suspect they disable the left handle because it's one less spinning thing for stuff to get caught on in the shop. I've seen machines with a left handle that didn't rotate until it was pushed inboard so it wasn't spinning around all the time, but could be used if needed.
 
@joec2000 Wow has this thread blown up. Lots of good advice here.

@mmcmdl is a master of getting good deals. (I've gotten the benefit of some of them)

The original machine in the first post appears to be at a dealer or a shop with a lot of machines. Good news and bad news on that. Most experienced dealers and big shops know how to hide flaws... - - but the good news is that chromed ways on a BP gives it very long wear. These ways have to be original, and in good shape. When they wear, there are long swarf lines in them, which shows stripping of the chrome. No one EVER re-chromes these machines. They are just too costly to disassemble, chrome and put back together. Always cheaper to replace the machine. Because they will demo it under power, and encourage people to look in person, This is probably a lower risk deal. Anything on a BP can be fixed, especially for an experienced machinist.

Alternate brands I have had very good experience with in person: (from best to worst) First Excello Hartford XLO and much farther down, BP.

Yes any one of these is far sturdier and better made than a Bridegport (sorry Bridgeport enthusiasts, no offense intended But I have had all these apart and together again) I have a bunch of experience on these brands and rebuilding them. In fact I am rebuilding a Hartford in my shop right now.

Frankly any knee mill that has reasonable backlash and the ways aren't clapped out will work well as a hobby machine. I have a Precision Matthews PM935, and Hartford 7X42 and a First 9X49 in my shop right now (!!)
 
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joec2000 said:
Now to figure out how to move it...
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That is one of the bigger issues when dealing with our hobby machines. The big question is can the seller lift it? If he can, then a few obstacles are solved immediately.
When I moved my Sharp mill from the rigging facility, I brought along a pallet that I made specifically for moving my mill. I built it out of a few 4x4's and LVLs for the planking, knowing that the mill was going to weigh around 3800 lbs or so. I had requested the bolt-hole pattern from the rigger so I could pre-drill the holes for the mounting bolts. Once there, the rigger simply lifted it with his forklift by placing the forks under the ram. Once it was high enough we slid the pallet under the mill and he slowly lowered it down while I ensured alignment with my mounting holes. I then bolted the mill down to the pallet and he proceeded to pick the mill up with the pallet and set it in the trailer.
Speaking of trailer, I would highly suggest renting a hydraulic ground-level trailer <<<LINK. Using one of these makes it sooooo easy. Once I was back at my shop I simply used a pallet jack to get it off of the trailer and into my shop. That being said, my mill is still sitting on the pallet for two reasons: 1.) I haven't quite figured out how I am going to safely lift it to get the pallet out. 2.) I like having the pallet and the ability to move the mill with my pallet jack (which I have done a couple of times.) One of our members built a really cool system to move his mill around. Look at this thread starting at post #106 by @firstram. <<< LINK

The most important part about a move like this is to take your time and think it through. You will do fine.
 
+1 to everything @7milesup has said above.

It does take some thought and experience to lift a mill off a pallet. My 3800 lb First mill came on 2 pallets - the top one partially collapsed, and the bottom one sturdy. That is 8+ inches off the floor for the newbies. And it was leaning just a little to the side (dangerous)... Got it off, no problem, with only one butt-puckering moment.

I've used hydralic lowering trailers a couple of times, and they are very easy, and do a great job!
 
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