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- Jun 12, 2014
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You also may considered the PM-1440BV or PM-1440GS, both are close in price, come with cast iron bases, QCTP with holders, 2" spindle bore, etc. If you think you will be doing any larger turning, then these should be in the consideration. Having a 2" spindle bore is a real plus. There is an advantage to 3 phase motors with regard to surface finish, but it seems hit or miss as to with single phase lathes with regard to surface finish problems. Can't really explain why one lathe (same model) will have an issue and not another. Although lathes have historically been fixed speed, which works, you can dial in the sweet spot with a variable speed drive on the fly. I often find there is a narrow optimal speed range when boring or using larger drills.
Matt sells some inexpensive carbide tooling, my suggestion would be to go with his sets (turning, boring, threading) as a starting point, you won't have to be worrying about grinding and learning to profile HSS tooling. The CCMT/CCGT inserts work well enough to get you going. You do not need extreme speeds to use the carbide inserts, it is just that they can be pushed harder than HSS. Just an opinion, but I have been using it for years on my 1340GT and primarily use CCMT/CCGT and WNMG inserts for most of my turning. Once you get comfortable with your lathe, consider getting some better inserts, and maybe some other types/profile of tooling. On the live center, I would look at a CNC or extended point (long nose) live center in particular if you are using CCMT tooling. Standard live center points will interfere the CCMT insert holder on small diameter work.
Leveling feet, most everybody recommends solid metal threaded feet (usually 1/2" thread), they come up on eBay for as little as $7-10 each. Search level mount or leveling mount on eBay, S&W is a common brand. Or find a model number and search by that.
DRO, well high on my list, but then I didn't start out counting dials and revolutions. Between my eyesight and my cognitive ability at counting multiple turns, I would go with a DRO. To be blunt, you can now buy a basic 2 axis DRO with glass scales for about $250 (you want a slim line 1 micron scale on the cross slide), it will save you from a lot of mistakes. Install it yourself and save $$. A lathe you are basically reading numbers, on the mill, the added features of the higher end DRO's is a plus. Next step up would probably be an Easson DRO, like the ES12B or C and will run something like $475 from Aliexpress. Easson are very reliable, but twice the price.
So with either the above machines, basic tooling and DRO, well you are looking at around $5500-6K w/o shipping. Between the PM-1440BV or PM-1440GS, it is more a matter if you want variable speed vs. a more universal gearbox. There have been a number of discussions on these various models.
Matt sells some inexpensive carbide tooling, my suggestion would be to go with his sets (turning, boring, threading) as a starting point, you won't have to be worrying about grinding and learning to profile HSS tooling. The CCMT/CCGT inserts work well enough to get you going. You do not need extreme speeds to use the carbide inserts, it is just that they can be pushed harder than HSS. Just an opinion, but I have been using it for years on my 1340GT and primarily use CCMT/CCGT and WNMG inserts for most of my turning. Once you get comfortable with your lathe, consider getting some better inserts, and maybe some other types/profile of tooling. On the live center, I would look at a CNC or extended point (long nose) live center in particular if you are using CCMT tooling. Standard live center points will interfere the CCMT insert holder on small diameter work.
Leveling feet, most everybody recommends solid metal threaded feet (usually 1/2" thread), they come up on eBay for as little as $7-10 each. Search level mount or leveling mount on eBay, S&W is a common brand. Or find a model number and search by that.
DRO, well high on my list, but then I didn't start out counting dials and revolutions. Between my eyesight and my cognitive ability at counting multiple turns, I would go with a DRO. To be blunt, you can now buy a basic 2 axis DRO with glass scales for about $250 (you want a slim line 1 micron scale on the cross slide), it will save you from a lot of mistakes. Install it yourself and save $$. A lathe you are basically reading numbers, on the mill, the added features of the higher end DRO's is a plus. Next step up would probably be an Easson DRO, like the ES12B or C and will run something like $475 from Aliexpress. Easson are very reliable, but twice the price.
So with either the above machines, basic tooling and DRO, well you are looking at around $5500-6K w/o shipping. Between the PM-1440BV or PM-1440GS, it is more a matter if you want variable speed vs. a more universal gearbox. There have been a number of discussions on these various models.
