Machining a 1” Plate Welding Coupon

erikmannie

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I know I sound like a broken record always talking about welding coupons. Here I am uploading in real time what I am doing.

Since I will be doing this over & over again, maybe somebody can provide some constructive criticism.

This is my first step. I put the A36 plate in like this & took off .015”. This cutter is a carbide insert 2 inch face mill. One lubricated pass at 900 RPM at about 13 ipm, & then a dry spring pass at 1200 RPM at about 6 ipm.

I know it doesn’t need to be great because it is a welding coupon, but I’m also taking the opportunity to hone my machining skills & learn to get a good surface finish.

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I will do the opposite opposite side the same way, & there is no need to show that.
 
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Next is a lubed .015” off the side with a 3/4” 3-flute, solid carbide EM at 1000 RPM, 13 ipm. I follow this with a dry spring pass at 1800 RPM, 6 ipm feed. I always use power feed.

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The .015” pass did not completely remove the saw marks, so took off another .010”.

When I went to the other side, I just took off .025” from the get go.

I’m not happy with the surface finish:

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Now I face .015” off of the top with the same carbide face mill. Lubricated 900 RPM, 13 ipm, no spring pass.

We note that I did not have to take the work in & out of the vice for this following the side milling operation above.

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I am happy with the surface finish.
 
the finish on the side milling op maybe because of the material (generic mild steel) or the conventional (I'm assuming) cut. Try climb milling 10 thou off as a finish pass and see what you get.
 
Curious, what welding test requires a 1" coupon?

I do not know, although I had *assumed* a 1” (in this case) 1G SMAW test.

I am also assuming that it is helpful to practice different processes & positions on thick beveled plate.

Edit:

There is this test:


Video example:

 
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I got sidetracked because I had to install our gas dryer because *Lowe’s freakin’ sucks*!

Back to the project, I *had been* using this 80° solid carbide single angle cutter. It works really well, & using it yields a 40° bevel.

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The problem with the above cutting tool is that it isn’t tall enough for a bevel on 1” plate. I need to compensate for this by machining 2 bevels, one on top of the other, & match them up. It is almost impossible to match them up perfectly… and then you’re taking down the last thou or so (where the 2 bevels don’t perfectly match) with an orbital sander. Not a long-term plan.
 
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I bought this 1-1/4” thick, 6” diameter HSS single angle cutter which mounts to an R8 integral shank. I had to buy a 1-1/2” open end wrench to tighten the nut because my largest crescent wrench doesn’t open up to 1-1/2”.

I used some copper sheet, a tube block & a bench vise to tighten the nut on the stub arbor.

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that's a "tilt the head of your mill" job.

That would be really easy. I could use a face mill.

I could machine a bunch of these in a batch, and then trammel the head afterwards.
 
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