Machinist Level???

jocat54 said:
I have always wondered about using one of the digital angle blocks for a level. I thick sheet of paper will change the reading on mine by about .2
I don't have any idea how accurate they would be compared to a machinist level, has anyone else used them to level their lathe?
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I have the iGaging digital level. Although it reads to .05º, it is reliable to .2º, or .1º at best. A .005"/10" machinists level can easily resolve a change in angle of .03º and a .0005"/10" machinists level can resolve change in angle of .003º.

While I have not peeked inside, the iGaging level most likely makes use of a pendulum to detect a plumb condition. As such, it has a set of bearings and bearings have friction. This is the reason why you get different readings when approaching an angle from different directions or when measuring the same angle multiple times.

I use my iGaging level for doing setups where the angle is not critical. I would not attempt to use it for leveling a machine. My carpenter's level is just as sensitive and there is no bearing friction to contend with.
 
I have a digital level that reads to 0.01 degree, but agree in general I do not trust it other than generalized leveling. The digital level will resolve 0.01, but calibrate it and flip it and you can see a slight error of about 0.04 degree (or more). Fine for a mill or most machinery, but I think with a lathe I would recommend a 0.0005" per 10" as a minimum if you are trying to detect bed twist. Anything less, and you do not have the ability to detect anything other than gross variations in bed twist. Lots of variations on types and precision/ability to read the bubble reliably. I use an 8" long precision level (EDA - SPI) for the lathe, sometimes a longer won't fit across the ways. I use 123 blocks on the way flats and put the level on top in the same position as I move down the ways. Precision levels come with various types of bases, some might have a slight hollowing in the center or have feet at either end, so I always position the level in the same position on the blocks (level is centered between the blocks) when leveling. I seem to have very little change from handling my level, it has a very heavy body and an enclosed bubble chamber but it does need to stabilize at the temperature/area they are being used.

SPI (EDA) level.jpg
 
Tony Wells said:
I wouldn't want to be under attack and have to make parts on rough seas, but they did it because it was necessary. And they didn't mess around tweaking the machines to a gnats behind between battles either, I'd bet. They had a job to do and had to be ready at all times.
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Tony I was on a tin can you do get used to running the lathe when everything is moving, on a small ship they will not have you running the lathe if the sea state is real bad , on larger ships like an aircraft carrier you battle station could be at a lathe or milling machine .
 
In the absence of a machinist's level, I had taper of about .0006 in an inch, fat at the chuck. I put a piece of .025 under the back (right end) foot of my Clausing MK2, and got it down to .0002. I expect another .005 would make it straight, but for the length I'm concerned about now, .0002 is close enough.
 
Tagging this thread for future reference. Thanks for some good information.
 
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