Making a Steel Base & Stand for Sherline 4410 Lathe

[PhilJustLearning]

The Starrett 98-6 is adequate for the Sherline lathe. It is NOT adequate for larger lathes but for our small guys, yeah, it will work. I think this because of the solid bed; not much movement will occur.

The feeler gauge idea is a good one but an even better one for use on larger lathes is to have adjustable feet under the chassis of the lathe and under the bottom of the lathe stand. You will use both to dial in the level of the lathe and it will be much faster and more precise than messing with the leaves of a feeler gauge set. For our Sherline, foil is more than adequate.

It is important to understand that not all HSS tools are created equal. Just because the tool is made from HSS does not mean it will perform as well as one ground by someone who actually knows what he is grinding. I have yet to see a pre-ground commercial set that will outperform one made by either of the guys I recommended. I would strongly suggest you have one ground for you and run comparison tests with Grizzly tools to see what I mean.

Inserted carbide tools are not suitable for cutting tests. Their nose radii and edges deflect too much. This has to do with the cutting forces they generate. If you want to learn more about why HSS is a better choice for a Sherline user, go here and read. A Sherline lathe can use inserted cabide tools because it can go fast enough when turning larger diameters. However, the motor has only 0.08 HP so you won't be taking big cuts. In contrast, a good HSS tool will vastly outperform caribide on a Sherline lathe; it isn't even close. A good HSS tool will cut deeper than carbide, will be far more accurate and will produce a superior finish vs carbide. The only time you need carbide is when turning hard materials.

If I were you, Phil, I would make learning to grind a good HSS tool a priority. Good tools will allow your Sherline to reach it's full potential.

I have never used Zirconium ceramic tools on either of my lathes and have no practical opinion.

Hi mikey
What's needed to level & check the PM-1340GT, in terms of levels, other tools? I have one coming Aug/Sept.

I'll reach out to those folks and get some starter HSS sets and details of the material they used.
You're right, it would be interesting to compare those to the Grizzly set.
Just so folks know, I ordered the "Grizzly Industrial H5687-8 pc. Ground HSS Tool Bit Set 3/8" from Amazon.

Understood, HSS rocks for most of the stuff we do on the Sherline lathe.
Carbide is used then for really hard stock.

For grinding, I have an old Delta 6" grinder, fixed speed, on-off.
Is a variable speed grinder an advantage?
There are variable speeds from 2000 RPM to 3400 RPM.
Are the white aluminum oxide wheels the best for crafting HSS tools?
What grit(s)?

I'll read your other thread, that's a long one, tons of info
Thanks
Phil

 

[mikey]

Hi mikey
What's needed to level & check the PM-1340GT, in terms of levels, other tools? I have one coming Aug/Sept.

I'll reach out to those folks and get some starter HSS sets and details of the material they used.
You're right, it would be interesting to compare those to the Grizzly set.
Just so folks know, I ordered the "Grizzly Industrial H5687-8 pc. Ground HSS Tool Bit Set 3/8" from Amazon.

Understood, HSS rocks for most of the stuff we do on the Sherline lathe.
Carbide is used then for really hard stock.

For grinding, I have an old Delta 6" grinder, fixed speed, on-off.
Is a variable speed grinder an advantage?
There are variable speeds from 2000 RPM to 3400 RPM.
Are the white aluminum oxide wheels the best for crafting HSS tools?
What grit(s)?

I'll read your other thread, that's a long one, tons of info
Thanks
Phil

Basically, you need a precision machinists level and good HSS turning tools to level a lathe. I'm not sure what PM requires. Emco recommends at least a 0.02mm/M sensitivity for my lathe so I own a Kinex level of that sensitivity. The more sensitive the level, the faster you will be able to rough level the lathe and get to the 2-collar test.

Ideally, you want to align the head stock with the ways, then level the lathe, then align the tailstock. All of these steps require test cuts with high quality HSS turning tools. Go here for a brief discussion of the overall process. Also search for threads on leveling a lathe and read to your heart's content. We can answer any questions you might have afterwards.

My personal bias for grinding tools is a belt sander. It is a far better tool for the job, at least in my opinion. Read the article and you'll see why I think that way. You can also read this article for a better look at my grinder.

Sorry for not being more complete but I have a lot going on right now. Ask questions and I or someone will get back to you.

 

[PhilJustLearning]

Basically, you need a precision machinists level and good HSS turning tools to level a lathe. I'm not sure what PM requires. Emco recommends at least a 0.02mm/M sensitivity for my lathe so I own a Kinex level of that sensitivity. The more sensitive the level, the faster you will be able to rough level the lathe and get to the 2-collar test.

Ideally, you want to align the head stock with the ways, then level the lathe, then align the tailstock. All of these steps require test cuts with high quality HSS turning tools. Go here for a brief discussion of the overall process. Also search for threads on leveling a lathe and read to your heart's content. We can answer any questions you might have afterwards.

My personal bias for grinding tools is a belt sander. It is a far better tool for the job, at least in my opinion. Read the article and you'll see why I think that way. You can also read this article for a better look at my grinder.

Sorry for not being more complete but I have a lot going on right now. Ask questions and I or someone will get back to you.

Thank you mikey
Phil