Making New SB Heavy 10 L front Bearing

So far I'm into it for some washing soda and 12v electricity. $5.00 maybe.
It came in rusted pieces. Shims were saved in a small plastic container as were the bed shims (but a large one)
I'm still sorting out the small bits, pins bolts etc. But I think most of them are here.
As for 'destination' I'd like to know its going to be a usable machine without having to spend what a used machine is going to run. Which was what started me on this thread.
If I'm looking at spending a grand I'd let it go for parts since it's already in pieces.
But I'm leaning now towards trying dressing the spindle or if need be taking off a few thou and threading it for repair with locktite industrial.
So I'm still under budget and chips are still a possibility.
 
I'm not sure what you are saying about the spindle, is it damaged other than the wear on the bearing journals? Not sure what you where trying to say about the loctite. This is what I think you should do, clean and polish the spindle, place it in the headstock and install the bearing caps with enough shims to be able to turn the spindle by hand. Then insert a solid round bar about a foot and a half long into the center of the spindle and set up a indicator on it and see how much play is in the So I flea both up and down and side to side. This will tell you how worn the breadstick is. Look in my heavy ten rebuild thread and you will see the set up for this. I'll try and find a pick of the set up when I get home from work tonight.
 
woodtickgreg said:
I'm not sure what you are saying about the spindle, is it damaged other than the wear on the bearing journals? Not sure what you where trying to say about the loctite. This is what I think you should do, clean and polish the spindle, place it in the headstock and install the bearing caps with enough shims to be able to turn the spindle by hand. Then insert a solid round bar about a foot and a half long into the center of the spindle and set up a indicator on it and see how much play is in the So I flea both up and down and side to side. This will tell you how worn the breadstick is. Look in my heavy ten rebuild thread and you will see the set up for this. I'll try and find a pick of the set up when I get home from work tonight.
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If you guys think the pitting on the spindle in no big deal then I'll polish and go, but I was thinking along the following lines regarding the loctite. Different brand but same idea.


As there is no bench for this yet and its still in pieces running tolerance tests isn't very practical.
I definitely will once it comes together.
I'm just trying to line my ducks up in a row at this point.
 
I honestly don't know if a product like that would work in a spindle application. I have my doubts. Spindles can be had if you think it is to far gone. Polish it and see how it looks first.
 
woodtickgreg said:
I honestly don't know if a product like that would work in a spindle application. I have my doubts. Spindles can be had if you think it is to far gone. Polish it and see how it looks first.
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From what I saw of the 'epoxy putty' tests and other Info this is exactly the type of application they developed that stuff for, repairing shafts running in a bearing.
I just found out about it yesterday so more investigations are coming.
It turns up on PM searches and goes back years in use from what I've seen so far.

Mine as is won't fly far unless someone can convince me those are all just oil pockets...
 
No, I think your right, that's pretty bad. But having seen that and knowing what you can get a spindle for I would probably just replace it. What I don't know is if the spindles are the same for the cast iron bearing verses the bronze bearing shells.
 
I have my doubts about them matching.
Waiting on pricing info for the 1131 formula from the video above.
Non shrinking with graphite specifically for this application.
He said take it down .125 and leave it like was your first cut ever...
Welll *I* can do that!
The other method I felt doable for me is flux core tranfer weld. With the VFO on my first lathe I could set it as slow as I need and I wouldn't have to take out the .125 to start. Just to the bottom of the pits.
I'll let cost/ease factor in and see whats what.
 
A kilo of 1131 runs over $400.
Time to get the mig out and start practicing on a chunk of 2" pipe chucked up and turning in the old homemade WG Hartman...
Yeah, he made it.
 
Would be an interesting bit of info to know if the cast iron spindle will interchange with the bronze one.
MS
 
It looks the same but I don't really know. Maybe comparing south bends part numbers for each might tell the tale.
 
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