• We want to encourage those of you who ENJOY our site and find it USEFUL to DONATE and UPGRADE your membership from active member to donating or premium membership. If you want to know the differences in membership benefits, please visit THIS PAGE:

    https://www.hobby-machinist.com/premium/

    Donating memberships start at just $10 per year. These memberships are in fact donations that help pay our costs, and keep our site running!
    Thank you for your donation, God Bless You

  • As some of you know, I have wanted to stop managing H-M for some time. It's a tremendous strain on my personal life. I want to set up my own shop. In September, September 15, to be exact, it will be 8 years that Hobby-Machinist has been in existence.

    I have been training VTCNC to run things here. Dabbler is going to learn too. I feel that they are ready to start taking over the operation. I will be here to help in case they need, but I don't think they will. Tony Wells is and will be here also to consult with. I will be doing backups, upgrades, and installing addons. Other than that, I will not be around. I am leaving this place in good operating condition, and financial condition.
    --Nelson
[4]

Marvel 612 Horizontal Band Saw Cutting Issue

[3]
[10] Like what you see?
Click here to donate to this forum and upgrade your account!

Janderso

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
549
Likes
291
#1
Hi,
I am not new to band saws but this old saw is in the middle of a refurbish for personal use. I love the old iron.
I was cutting a piece of cold rolled 2X2 square stock last night. This is the first time I have used this saw. Plenty of lubrication.
The hydraulic lowering valve is not sensitive enough (will be replacing it) so I had to lower the blade manually. It cut very fast and smooth with one big problem. The cut was angled a bit, dished out if that makes sense.
I have the roller/bearings fairly snug on the blade so I am thinking I had too much downward pressure causing the blade deflection?
Does this sound right?
I'll go back and check the adjustment of the concentric gadget.
This blade came with the saw, it's old but seems to cut well.
Could it be the blade?
I know if a chain saw blade gets dull it will dish out.
Thank you for your ideas.
Jeff
 

markba633csi

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
2,652
Likes
1,374
#2
Hi Jeff yes it could be too much down pressure, this also happens if the blade is not tight enough I've found
Mark
 

Dave Smith

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
1,040
Likes
214
#3
several things to check---is your blade tension enough?--do you have the correct width blade? Dave
*note--if the teeth of blade are riding on the metal of the large wheels then you have too narrow blade on--teeth should ride just off the wheel edge
 
Last edited:

Janderso

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
549
Likes
291
#4
Dave, I'm at work right now but as I recall the blade does not overhang the wheel. It rides within the wheel surface with about an 1/8 to go. I have not measured the blade but it is approx. 5/8.
If it needs to overhang the wheel, the blade is too narrow.
 

Janderso

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
549
Likes
291
#5
I just found a blade source on-line. This document from Lenox Bandsaw Blades- shows the Marvel 612-Olson 0100 having a 8' 10" blade with 3/4 or 5/8 width. Does that mean I can use either? It is a pretty hefty blade on this machine!!
 

Dave Smith

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
1,040
Likes
214
#6
I think with the 3/4" wide blade you will have straighter cuts and the teeth will not wear on the one side---if the 5/8 " blade is still cutting good I would continue to use it unless you need totally straight cuts---if so then put the wider one on and keep the narrower one for a spare--Dave
 

Janderso

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
549
Likes
291
#7
How do I know the correct tension? Do I let off on the tension when not in use?
It's been a long time since I have used this type of shop equipment. Having a ball.
My drill press came in today!
South Bend
Bridgeport
Grizzley
I'm getting there..
Thanks for the help!
 

Dave Smith

Active User
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 10, 2013
Messages
1,040
Likes
214
#8
I usually just check with my thumb and finger that it is tight with tension and I never loosen it at all---Dave
 

markba633csi

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
2,652
Likes
1,374
#9
+1
 

Dabbler

Administrator Trainee
Staff member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Oct 11, 2016
Messages
440
Likes
332
#10
On my horiz bandsaw, I lightly tap the blade with a tiny hammer or other metal striker. when I get a resonant sound (kind of a 'ping!') then I know the blade is tight enough. Using a 3/4" blade, you can go pretty tight, which will help you get smooth and straight cuts.
 

Janderso

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
549
Likes
291
#11
Awesome, thank you.
I purchased 2 blades from mc master Carr. I'm not sure why. If you had to choose between the 8-12 anti vibration long life 3/4 or the 10-14?
My usage? Aluminum 1x2, round cold rolled stock 1/2 to 2.5", brass stock etc.
Which would you consider to be a multi use blade. I'm not in a hurry.
 

Dabbler

Administrator Trainee
Staff member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Oct 11, 2016
Messages
440
Likes
332
#12
either would work - it would depend on your downfeed rate and preferred way to use it... I personally use very slow downfeed, so I get to use coarser blades for general use...
 

Janderso

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
549
Likes
291
#13
My Saw is up and running. Wierd thing is, I noticed the old Marvel 612 has to be finessed. The blade kept sliding down the spools and rubbing on the housing.
I replaced the blade from McMaster Carr, they sold me Starret blades.
By changing blades the track improved?
I don’t get it. No more tracking issues, I tightened the blade and adjusted the new guide bearings, works and cuts great!!!
The new vise mount is installed and working perfectly. The old screw and vise jaw mount were stripped beyond redemption. 3/4 left hand threads. It never occured to me the threads were left handed until you think about tightening the jaw clockwise, it would pull away if not LH thread.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

markba633csi

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter - Gold Member ($25)
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
2,652
Likes
1,374
#14
I use my 14 tooth blade the most, followed by the 24 tooth for thin stock.
Those two pretty much cover 95% of what I do
Mark
 

Ken from ontario

H-M Supporter - Silver Member
H-M Supporter - Silver Member ($10)
Joined
Dec 26, 2016
Messages
823
Likes
603
#15
My Saw is up and running. Wierd thing is, I noticed the old Marvel 612 has to be finessed. The blade kept sliding down the spools and rubbing on the housing.
I replaced the blade from McMaster Carr, they sold me Starret blades.
By changing blades the track improved?
I don’t get it. No more tracking issues, I tightened the blade and adjusted the new guide bearings, works and cuts great!!!
The new vise mount is installed and working perfectly. The old screw and vise jaw mount were stripped beyond redemption. 3/4 left hand threads. It never occured to me the threads were left handed until you think about tightening the jaw clockwise, it would pull away if not LH thread.



I was going to suggest you change the blade ,but it looks like you did that already and the saw now cuts straight again, in hobby environment we don't often notice the gradual decline of the blade's performance, but changing it does solve many problems like tracking, cutting issues.
I'm glad you worked it out.
 
[6]
[5] [7]
Top