mc-30 motor controller with treadmill motor issue

I do know if you break the center wire which is called the wiper, and add your machine start and stop switch, the motor will start back up at that speed,and you don't have to readajust the pot.
 
Ok so i have the transformer and no dice still runs the same. Runs then shuts off then runs. I have the red wire on the pot to L(black) pole, Blue to W(white) and brown to speedpot these are the connector names. This goes from right to left on the pot with the contact facing front and the adjustment knob closer to me



(SpeedPot) w(white) L(Black)
brown blue red
\ | /

0 (adjustment Knob)

I believe same setup i saw on the MC 60 and same lettering.
 
white is center(wiper) the other 2 don't matter revers the other 2 to change direction of the motor
 
Ok so i have the transformer and no dice still runs the same. Runs then shuts off then runs. I have the red wire on the pot to L(black) pole, Blue to W(white) and brown to speedpot these are the connector names. This goes from right to left on the pot with the contact facing front and the adjustment knob closer to me



(SpeedPot) w(white) L(Black)
brown blue red
\ | /

0 (adjustment Knob)

I believe same setup i saw on the MC 60 and same lettering.


as i said in my earlier post i think you have the brown and blue wires swapped the blue wire carries the speed signal to the speed pot terminal.

W Speed Pot L
Brown blue red

\ | /



I hope this helps


Art B
 
By switching wires the motor will not run only way it runs is using current setup
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Ok so i got my fluke and did a little test just to see whats going on speedpot is 12 volts.
W seems to be a ground
L using ohm setting is linked to the motors A- not A+
 
On one of the controllers that i have used, the method of changing delays etc was controlled by clipping resistors or jumpers. Take a good close look and see if any of the resistors have been clipped. On the one I'm thinking about there was a resistor that was clipped in most treadmill operations that required the speed control be reset to zero every time you shut of the drive. by reattaching that resistor it would allow you to retain your set-point and start and stop it without starting at zero every time..

I see from the last set of pictures that you have changed the wiring as I suggested, did that make any differrence or had you already changed it form the original picture.

Art B
 
The way you stated there was no movement in the motor, I tried every wire scenario and the one I have, is the only way it works the only odd thing is, even in other wire scenarios when I plug the 110 socket into outlet the motor turns on for a split second.

I looked at at the board and from the top of the board the only things I see is a jumped resistor and a jumper where another pot should be which saids min. Could the min pot be my issue?
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you are showing it wired 2 different ways the top picture is what I was suggesting which way is it that works

The min pot jumper would give a zero rpm min speed if you wanted to add a min pot you probably would also need to add the RX resistor just to the left that isn't there.

- the other three Minnie pots - are any of them set at either end, that could also generate a non functional signal. especially if the torque limiting or acceleration pot was at one end or the other. The max speed pot at zero could do what you are getting as it would start and then respond to the zero max speed setting and shut back down until restarted.

The jumped resistor looks like a paralleled capacitor and resistor which is a method of time delay signal, I'm not quit sure what it would be used for, it also looks like it is something that was added as normally they would be paralleled in the board. It is possible that the board has been modified for a specific application and no longer functions as originally intended. If tha is the case you will probaly need to find another board. Watch craigs for a free treadmill, I have 4 sets of motors on my tools and haven't paid for any of them.

good luck.

Art B


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