Metal Lathe ??????

There is a 6" Atlas/Craftsman in York for $475.
A Seneca Falls 9x5 in Jonestown for $275.
 
I'll make a call and we'll see what is left in the shop . He did have big and small stuff , and a lot of stuff . He made ammunition and weapons that were top secret back in the day . I was interested in a few things but couldn't do it at the time . I'll go back and try to find the pictures , unless you want to . I know they are in my content page maybe 2-3 years back .
 
If you decide to go used and want an Atlas, I'd suggest waiting until you find at least a 10". Anything with a smaller swing than that and you're probably going to outgrow it pretty fast. I know there's lots of times I wish my 10" was the larger 12". It's a common thing with lathes; it's only a matter of time before you find you want something with a bigger swing. There's also the point that most (not all) of the parts that fit a 10" atlas can be reused on a 12" atlas. But, you have to make sure a part you buy actually interchanges between the 10" and the 12". The headstock is taller on a 12", so the tailstock is taller, the top compound is taller, etc. Most of the gears and mechanical bits fit either or though.

Atlas(Clausing) also still sells parts for the old Atlas lathes, but it seems it's less and less every year. Doesn't seem to be any shortage of used parts on ebay, everybody just seems to think they're made of gold. BUt they sold a lot of these lathes when new, so there's lots of these machines around which means parts availabity is fairly decent for a 70-ish year old lathe.

I say go as big as you can afford for the first one. Just make sure f you're buying used you know what to check to assess if it has excessive wear and if you can repair it economically. Things like half nuts and such are pretty much considered wear items and will either need replacement or will soon enough after you put it to regular use.

Go big, unless you plan to ever only do small work that will fit the swing of something like the 101.....
 
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$1500 can buy a nice lathe in a 10" size . You go up to $2500 and you can get a 13" lathe . Depending on space and what your needs are , it's something to think about . The thou extra gets you 2 thou in tooling alone providing you have the space . The OP is always welcome to make a visit to the showroom up my way for help . :)
 
russ498 said:
I am getting ready to order n 8X16 metal lathe. Budget dictates that it be an Asian machine. None of the ads indicate what sized cutter bits to buy. I see 1/4", 3/8" and 5/16", as well as 8mm and 10mm. Is there a way to adjust the height of the cutter so that it meets the centerline. It looks like they index on the bottom of the bit, so they would each meet the work at a different height.

Second, I am looking at Amazon as the primary source for all of the add ons and accessories. Is there another source. I prefer to give my business to small shops, even if it costs a little more, within reason.
mdd
Last, how about suggestions on machines. I can't spend more than $1500. I know most of them are made in the same Chinese factory, but I'm told that retailers make substantial changes both good and bad. They all look similar, but.....
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Your lathe will likely have a 4 way tool post. This is what something like 99% of all Asian (and American) machines are going to have. As for cutter size, don't buy anything until you get the machine, but chances are if it fits a AXA quick change tool post, you should be fine up to 1/2".

I'm also going to mirror other's response and buy the biggest lathe your budget allows. If you can get a 12 inch lathe used at your budget, get that.
 
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@mmcmdl it looks like your pasadena friend is no longer a member. He may have deleted himself. (or do I have the first part of his member name wrong?)
 
@russ498 I started with a 12X37 and needed to go bigger. much bigger. My first lathe was 750 lbs, next was 1750 lbs and my latest is 3700 lbs. I still have all three... (I have a small problem).

For just over 1000$ you should be able to find a decent lathe in your area. Don't discount the South Bend 9A as a possibility. it is a very capable lathe and much easier to use than a 7" Asian lathe in my experience. All my friends that have bought those small 7X24 and 10X28 lathes have sold them and bought better (used) machines...

that being said, if you end up with a lathe with a 4-way toolpost, I can help you get your tooling to be on centre without any shims.

Best of luck in your search!
 
I think the biggest problem with a larger lathe is inability to crank up the RPM to get the best surface finish for smaller diameter stock. I mean some of the carbide inserts really want at least 3000 or higher RPM for good surface finish, and no lathes in the 12-20 inch range is capable of that RPM (nor can do it safely), seems CNC have no problem with this.

But 7" asian lathes are not worth it. They have crap bearing (often ball bearing which doesn't belong on a lathe), crap leadscrew, requires you to change gears to change feed speed, often have crap nylon gears, have too small spindle bore, etc.

Basically a waste of money.

I still think the market needs a good 7" lathes capable of spinning up to 4000rpm though, for making small parts (such as watches) with good surface finish....
 
taiwanluthiers said:
I think the biggest problem with a larger lathe is inability to crank up the RPM to get the best surface finish for smaller diameter stock. I mean some of the carbide inserts really want at least 3000 or higher RPM for good surface finish, and no lathes in the 12-20 inch range is capable of that RPM (nor can do it safely),
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The other problem is power. Let's say you're cutting large diameter material where the surface speed is quite high. For once, it ought to be high enough to actually get a good surface finish with carbide. You touch the tool to the work, and it shoots out a tangle of metallic silly string. The long, unbroken chip wraps around the part and ruins the surface finish, and maybe flays the flesh from your bones too. You want to get the chip to break, you're using carbide, so have little control over tool geometry. About all you can do is increase the depth of cut to get the chips to break, and put and end to that silly string. (At least that's the only thing I know to do. I should in no way shape or form be considered any kind of expert or authority on anything.)

Cut the number of passes you were going to do in half, take a much more aggressive cut, the C's and 9's are flying, the surface finish is gorgeous, and... the light go off, because the breaker tripped. (Having lights on a separate circuit would be an excellent idea, but my panel is totally full.)

I gave up on getting a good surface finish with carbide with my 10" x 22". The spindle doesn't turn fast enough most of the time, and even when it does, the lathe lacks the power to do all the wonderful things you see the Youtube guys doing on their big tool room lathes.
 
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