My 70 Nova project (Formerly looking at this mustang)

Call the manufacturer, of the housing, tomorrow and ask them WTF?
 
I should but I don't think it will do any good. I bought it over a year ago before I had my stroke. Funny, tomorrow is my 1 year stoke anniversary. Hopefully there won't be a repeat.

I'm going to have to work it out somehow. I may be able to swap the backing plate side to side and reverse the ebrake mechanism, or rotate it like Jim mentioned.

Or I could do a lowering block to move the axle up away from the spring. I'm not sure how the car will sit at this point and if I want to lower it or not.
 
I wouldn't mess with the springs, just rotate the calipers higher, Ford did that with the sierra and scorpio models in europe, see picture.
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Problem solved.

Flipped the backing plats side to side and upside down and everything clears.

Only difference is that the ebrake cable connection is at the top over the axle instead of being below. I really don't see that as a problem.

Now on to the next problem. Adapting the hydro boost to fit my pedals. And working out how to use a hydraulic clutch master cylinder on a car that that had mechanical linkage.

Hey, I'm retired. Got nothing else to do right? This whole thing was my idea. I just have to keep reminding myself of that :rolleyes:

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Got the ebrake cable problem solved. Spent a couple of days trying to figure out how to use the explorer cable setup and it just wouldn't work.

So I contacted control cables in sante fe, ca and told them exactly what I wanted and they came through beautifully. They fit perfectly. All I had was the front cable that came from the pedal, and didn't even have the pedal. The PO threw so much away, even the pedal mount bracket. I had to buy it and the ebrake pedal. I'm not sure how he thought he was going to drive the car with no pedals. Now I just need the intermediate cable and called control cables again and told them what I needed. So there is a way to marry explorer rear disk brakes to a chevy. I was really stressing over it.

I am about to put the engine/trans in and then I can have the driveshaft cut. But I noticed that the throttle pedal was still there (I'm surprised it was) and decided to take it out. That left me with a big ugly hole. So decided that won't do. I have a cnc and can make a block off plate for it.

I've ordered my engine harness, sent the computer off to be reprogrammed, and orderd a fuel new injection style tank.

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Just when I thought I'd found everything the PO screwed up on the car I found this.

Notice anything missing?

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Yeap, outer clamp, good time for upgrade, i've made me stronger linkages with two lock nuts, on bad roads like here seams to keep the alignment much better.
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Back when I was autocrossing my camaro I made some tie rod couplers.

Bought a left hand tap and the threads were so tight we had to use a pipe wrench to adjust the toe.
 
Around here roads are bumpy and steep, we are a mountainous country, the split type of couplers have a habit of stretching and bending and vehicles lose their alignment in less than 10 000 km. So young me started looking under old mercedes vehicles, trucks vans and seen they use a solid bar with lock nuts. So i had a friend's father machine me couple with the right threads align it with a string and tape measure, and that car never had uneven tire wear, or pulling in the steering wheel, those were good times i could fix anything with hand tools, now you are not getting done nothing without diagnostic tools ( laptop).
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Getting more done. Dropped the engine/trans in today. I need to have my driveshaft shortened so needed them in place to measure it. Found a guy about 50 miles from me that will cut and balance it for $100. My fuel tank shipped today. Been waiting 3 weeks for them to send it, it was in stock. So called today and magically I got a ship notice the same day. Computer is on the way back with a fresh performance tune, and hopefully wiring harness is on the way. The tuner aid the L92 responds very well to a tune. Said upwards of 50hp increase. Told me if I wanted to put a cam in it that will gain about 90 more and he will adjust the tune for free if I do that.

And as usual with installing the engine nothing lined up, a little pushing, some cussing and got all the bolts in finally. Got good clearance between the tie rod and oil pan. And my hydro boost clears the valve covers by a country mile. Wasn't that way with the vacuum booster.

Now the big question is will the intake and alternator clear the hood? On other LS installs it does, but when I got the car the alternator wouldn't let the hood close, but the PO was a moron and didn't have the engine on the mounts correctly. Was sitting up about 2 inches. Also put a new sub frame in, the old was was hit and seriously tweaked.

On the machining front, just paid $2600 to have the spindle drive repaired on my lathe. That hurt big time :rolleyes:

Bank account has taken a big hit this week.



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