My 70 Nova project (Formerly looking at this mustang)

Some time ago i promised a picture of the fuel coolers on my 607, you can see how the french had mounted them on the return line.
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That's interesting that it needs coolers for the fuel line. I don't think I've seen that before.

Been making some progress on the nova. Apparently the PO decided that he didn't need pedals to drive the car. So he removed the pedal mounting bracket. I didn't realize this since it's up under the dash and the car just got out of rust repair jail after 3 months. So, talking with 3 different people that had the bracket. for well over 2 weeks. One of them finally came through sending one to me. I absolutely hate dealing with people. 3 weeks to get me the part when you are one state away is ridiculous :burned up: OK, rant over.

I decided to go with an adjustable prop valve for the brakes. I've got that mounted and the made up the lines from the master to it. I discovered the the prop valve has 3/16" lines both in and out. The rear brake hard line is 1/4". But checking the master cylinder I see that both out of it are also 3/16" So do I adapt the 3/16 line up to 1/4", or run a new 3/16" line to the back brakes? I've put disks on the rear. It was drums. I'm also going to use AN lines for the hydro bosot and steering box. I ordered -6 line from Russel on amazon and it was -4 in the box. I can't even imagine how they made a mistake like that.

After I got the pedal bracket I was able to put the pedals in and see how the brake and clutch cylinder push rods lined up. They do line up with the holes in the pedals, but the push rods are too long. I'll have to shorten them and use some rod ends on them. If you look closely you can see the marks I made on the push rods for length.

Got the 9" set on the springs. Nova's use short bolts to secure the housing to the springs. I don't have a full set of them and they are $8 each x 8. I ordered 1/2" u bolts that go over the housing instead for less than half the cost. To me they look much stronger than the stock bolts.

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Well a couple steps forward, and one major step backward.

Made up my front brake lines out of braided stainless, got the correct bolts for the backing plates.

Got my u bolts in for the rear axle and shortened the bolts (not shortened in the pic) and it worked out much better than the stock mounting bolts. I like the bolts wrapping around the rear axle and not just clamping on the spring mounting plate.

But I ran into a big problem with the banjo fitting on the rear caliper not clearing the leaf spring. See pic. The fitting barely clears, but no room for the banjo bolt.

I've not decided what to do about it yet. My thoughts are slot the holes in the backing plate and turn it enough to clear. Not that thrilled about that at all. Might look and see if there is such a thing as a allen head banjo bolt.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?



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I guess you might be able to redrill the holes, leaving enough meat in there to make sure they are strong enough, I wouldn't slot them.

Or maybe just rotate the backing plate 90 degrees?
 
Will the parking brake cable/arrangement allow the caliper to be relocated (rotated) enough to clear the banjo/spring.
Or, would the parking brake become the "next" problem?
 
Well slotting probably wasn't the correct word to use. Redrill would have been better.

I'm going to pull the backing plate off tomorrow and see how I can do it. I'm not sure about the ebrake cable. I don't know if I can use the stock explorer brake cable, or have to go with a Lokar setup. Those are about $175. Rather not do that.

I guess what bothers me is this is a commercially made housing and is set up for explorer brakes. I can't understand why they would intentionally set it up with a clearance issue like this.
 
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