[Newbie] My First Attempt At Scraping

Use literally 4 drops for a 12x12 square area, and when applying the red to the part put a few drops on a rag and wipe it on the part, then wipe it off, leaving a haze.
If you find that the ink isn't thick enough on the plate, add another drop, if it's too thick then use your hand not a linty rag to wipe some off and re-roll it

I don't thin my ink but you could use, uh, let me think, um, oh yeah water duh, it's water-based.... lol.
 
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If it is around 4 drops per 12x12 area I used too much. Will try less tonight, oh and thanks for the hint on the water lol.....:idea:
 
I seem to be having a hard time getting the clolor to be right now. Do you hit a point were it either covers the whole part or you get it too thin and doesn't really transfer? Is this the point where you just rub on the surface plate with no ink and and look for the shiny spots. I have done that and see very good coverage with shiny spots. Just seem like a hard way to see anything. I have tried both the Prussian blue and the canoed and have the same issue now. Even tried yellow on the part and blue on the plate.
 
you can add a little ink if it's hard for you to see.
when i have a hard time seeing, sometimes i'll mix my red and blue canode inks in different ratios
i came up with a couple different purple colors that seem to give good contrast
yellow and blue could make some interesting shades of green that may be easier for you to see.
the shiny points are the true points of contact, ultimately the ink is just an aid for easy visual identification of highs and lows
 
Not to hijack this thread, but it is relevant to the discussion at hand.

I have been experimenting a bit with rubberized printing ink, which will stay 'wet' for days on end out in the open air. In the can it is VERY hard and thick. It comes in a one pound can, so I will have plenty for a long time to come. It is oil based, not water based, but that is beside the point. In order to use it, I added mineral oil to it and mixed it in on the top of the ink to make a layer of ink that was much softer and more like the consistency of grease. I then used a dauber made from a rag to put some of the ink on my surface plate. A dauber is all I ever use, I've never even tried a roller yet. Anyway, it worked very well and cleans up easily with WD-40 or kerosene. Kerosene would also work as a thinner but will evaporate, allowing the ink to thicken again. Salad oil will also work, but soybean oil is what is known as a 'drying' oil, so over time it would also allow the ink to dry.

Incidentally, I tried a dark forest green color which worked just fine. Scientists claim that the human eye is most sensitive to green, so I thought it was worth a try.

Another friend of mine has been using artist's oil paints and having great success with them. They will eventually dry overnight, so if used cannot be left on the surface plate overnight.
 
im not sure why your having trouble, maybe your not rubbing on the blue long enough, it was advised to me by Richard King to rub for about 20-30 seconds, then rub dry for about the same amount
pretty easy to see the blue on my part
scrape1.jpg scrape2.jpg
 
image.jpeg
chevydyl said:
im not sure why your having trouble, maybe your not rubbing on the blue long enough, it was advised to me by Richard King to rub for about 20-30 seconds, then rub dry for about the same amount
pretty easy to see the blue on my part
View attachment 126758 View attachment 126759
Click to expand...
If it is recommended to rub that long I was quite short. Wasn't timing but would guess 5-10 sec max. It was working good until my dots per inch was increasing then seems like no happy place. I will try rubbing longer and see what that does. I know I am well past what is needed for this tailstock but wanted to see what it took to get 40 ppi.

I tore my garage apart this weekend to lower an old wood bench so it will be a few days before I can get back to scraping. It used to be about 41" I cut it down to 34" and added some casters.
 
terrywerm said:
Not to hijack this thread, but it is relevant to the discussion at hand.

I have been experimenting a bit with rubberized printing ink, which will stay 'wet' for days on end out in the open air. In the can it is VERY hard and thick. It comes in a one pound can, so I will have plenty for a long time to come. It is oil based, not water based, but that is beside the point. In order to use it, I added mineral oil to it and mixed it in on the top of the ink to make a layer of ink that was much softer and more like the consistency of grease. I then used a dauber made from a rag to put some of the ink on my surface plate. A dauber is all I ever use, I've never even tried a roller yet. Anyway, it worked very well and cleans up easily with WD-40 or kerosene. Kerosene would also work as a thinner but will evaporate, allowing the ink to thicken again. Salad oil will also work, but soybean oil is what is known as a 'drying' oil, so over time it would also allow the ink to dry.

Incidentally, I tried a dark forest green color which worked just fine. Scientists claim that the human eye is most sensitive to green, so I thought it was worth a try.

Another friend of mine has been using artist's oil paints and having great success with them. They will eventually dry overnight, so if used cannot be left on the surface plate overnight.
Click to expand...
Where do you get rubberized printing ink?
 
heres my Pratt & Whitney precision level, its around 30ppi I believe. that's using the Prussian blue, not very good color at all
levelnew1.jpg
 
chevydyl said:
im not sure why your having trouble, maybe your not rubbing on the blue long enough, it was advised to me by Richard King to rub for about 20-30 seconds, then rub dry for about the same amount
pretty easy to see the blue on my part
View attachment 126758 View attachment 126759
Click to expand...

You are getting very good markings there. You have rubbed so much that you rubbed off the blue in the middle of the markings. So make sure you scrap the area inside the holes in the middle of the blue. Personally, I do not rub anymore that a few strokes. I push the work piece or the straight edge slow and even, stroking about 3 to 6 strokes. Also feel the smoothness of the two bearing surfaces while taking impressions to determine how much contact you are getting and if you are dragging debris, giving you a false impression. Looking good! You're hired for the job! Start tomorrow!
 
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