My first Machinist’s Hammer.

Only one thing wrong with it that I can see and that is it's in your tool box and not mine!!
Great job!!
Make sure it goes to someone you love when the time comes.
I have a few of my Dad's tools.
Matter of fact, I just started refinishing one of his 3 pound machine hammers yesterday!
 
Only one thing wrong with it that I can see and that is it's in your tool box and not mine!!
Great job!!
Make sure it goes to someone you love when the time comes.
I have a few of my Dad's tools.
Matter of fact, I just started refinishing one of his 3 pound machine hammers yesterday!
Thank you!
 
You guys are way too kind. I appreciate the likes & responses to my post.
Since we’re here, I have a question about the hammer I posted.
I did not thread the Delrin heads & handle single point on the lathe, nor did I single point internal thread the holes in the hammer head.
I used a taper tap, followed by a bottoming tap, the handle & Delrin pieces I used a die.
The pieces all go really nicely until you get them about 3/4 of the way in, then they kind of tighten up. I really don’t think it’s right, but I don’t know why they’re all like that.
I bored the holes for the Delrin pieces .600
Made the threaded/relieved part of the Delrin .500
Hole for the handle was bored to .700 & the threaded/relieved part of the handle is .500.

The thread I selected is 1/2”X20 for all 3 pieces. I turned the male parts down to .494 before threading.
Holes were drilled to tap drill size 29/64.

I pretty much feel like this wouldn’t even be a thing had I single pointed all of this stuff.
But it’s the change gears. I have threaded a couple of things on my lathe & did the gear changing. It’s time consuming & a little annoying in the middle of a project. So I took the easy road...or the road that leads to threads that act funny 3/4 of the way in.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you all

Randall

Edit:
I did take my boring bar in to get rid of the drill cone after drilling the holes in the head.
 
The proportions are fine, but that sharp knurl might be hard on the hands.
Can a sharp knurl be tamed by just turning off the very tops of the sharp points? Just a very tiny cut?
Possibly a little careful rub with abrasive paper, and then a cleanup might have a similar effect?
 
One of the diamonds on the knurling, 26 in, 5 over from center-line in photo, has a small blemish. Yup, do it over. Just kidding, nice job. If the knurled handle is a little sharp, just hit it with a fine wire wheel, or some scotch bright. Mike
 
One of the diamonds on the knurling, 26 in, 5 over from center-line in photo, has a small blemish. Yup, do it over. Just kidding, nice job. If the knurled handle is a little sharp, just hit it with a fine wire wheel, or some scotch bright. Mike
I actually have some pretty calloused up hands (a life filled with lots of manual labor).
The knurl actually feels really good in my hand. Also, those were the wheels already mounted on my scissor knurler so I just used it.
 
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