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My PM-728VT
- Thread starter xyz
- Start date
Thanks for thinking about the problem.I think that the manual might have instructions for lifting, my 727 manual did.
Yes the manual describes a method. I am hoping that the base will fit in between the spread of the legs of the hoist. I have an alternate plan, in case that doesn't work out.
Hope it doesn't rain for an hour or so tomorrow.
I've got a Harbor freight 2 ton hoist and the stand fits between the legs on it, I just got my 728 last Tuesday and got it set up with it. I followed the method in the manual on lifting it, worked perfect...I used a 6 ft. lifting strap.Thanks for thinking about the problem.
Yes the manual describes a method. I am hoping that the base will fit in between the spread of the legs of the hoist. I have an alternate plan, in case that doesn't work out.
Hope it doesn't rain for an hour or so tomorrow.
When I put my stand together I noticed that the chip pan would move really easy when it's set in place....I didn't want to be fighting it to try and line up the holes while setting the mill on it so I actually super glued around the bolt holes on the stand and then set the chip pan on it and got the holes lined up and then pressed it down...I let it sit for about an hour, when I lifted and set the mill on it, the pan did not move, installed the bolts with no problem.
The mill is uncrated. It was well 'packaged': bolted to the pallet. Getting the box of parts that becomes the cabinet stand off the crate was tricky, but doable alone with a gantry and or an engine hoist.
The cabinet stand is bright blue. Much prettier than in the videos or photos. It took a while to assemble it, but the holes all lined up and the carriage bolts were easier to use than if it had been just bolts. Some bolts are difficult to install, but doable. Just a heads up: there are similar sized bolts and nuts. I started the assembly with them all sorted into groups and counted. I won't tell you who kicked over the tray and got them all mixed up. When assembled the base is pretty solid.
Next step is lifting the mill off the pallet and placing it on top of the stand or the base.
The cabinet stand is bright blue. Much prettier than in the videos or photos. It took a while to assemble it, but the holes all lined up and the carriage bolts were easier to use than if it had been just bolts. Some bolts are difficult to install, but doable. Just a heads up: there are similar sized bolts and nuts. I started the assembly with them all sorted into groups and counted. I won't tell you who kicked over the tray and got them all mixed up. When assembled the base is pretty solid.
Next step is lifting the mill off the pallet and placing it on top of the stand or the base.
I have the same engine hoist. The mill is less than 500 pounds, so the arm of the hoist can be fully extended. Tomorrow: That's what I will try.I've got a Harbor freight 2 ton hoist and the stand fits between the legs on it, I just got my 728 last Tuesday and got it set up with it. I followed the method in the manual on lifting it, worked perfect...I used a 6 ft. lifting strap.
When I put my stand together I noticed that the chip pan would move really easy when it's set in place....I didn't want to be fighting it to try and line up the holes while setting the mill on it so I actually super glued around the bolt holes on the stand and then set the chip pan on it and got the holes lined up and then pressed it down...I let it sit for about an hour, when I lifted and set the mill on it, the pan did not move, installed the bolts with no problem.
Super glue: Good idea. Often, I use a magnet to hold things in place. I don't have a big enough magnet for the weight of the chip pan, so, I'll give super glue a try. Thanks for the suggestion. I was thinking of using some kind of caulking so that oil will not run down into the cabinet.
Have you given any thought to power assist for the Z axis? Eventually, I am going CNC with mine. I already have PM's add on parts. But before that I have some cutting to do. Maybe I'll just live with hand cranking the Z until the CNC conversion.
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2021
- Messages
- 41
Glad to see some people getting their 728 mills. I ordered mine in June with a DRO. If their web site is still accurate I should be getting delivery in September. I'm retiring in 2 weeks, so I'm hoping this will give me the kick that I need to refocus my efforts.
Enjoy the machine and let us know if you also have the issue with leaking way oil as described by others on another thread
Enjoy the machine and let us know if you also have the issue with leaking way oil as described by others on another thread
Leaking way oil:Glad to see some people getting their 728 mills. I ordered mine in June with a DRO. If their web site is still accurate I should be getting delivery in September. I'm retiring in 2 weeks, so I'm hoping this will give me the kick that I need to refocus my efforts.
Enjoy the machine and let us know if you also have the issue with leaking way oil as described by others on another thread
I know there will be oil everywhere. Been there, done that. But I want to minimize it, if I can. I'm concerned about the long bolts that go through the bottom of the machine, then through the chip tray and through the top of the cabinet base.
Looks like Permatex Type-1 RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanized) Silicone Gasket Maker might do the trick. J-B Weld 31314 is also RTV.
Ideally a very little silicone would be needed where the bolt penetrates the chip pan and the cabinet base. But how to apply it.
I am thinking, after fully mounting the mill for positioning, with the pan and the cabinet minimally glued together, raise the mill, then apply only a little silicone where the bolt penetrates the holes.
Any thoughts would be welcome.
@mksj come to the rescue: In an earlier post he says ... He is talking about a lathe, but same goes for bolt holes, mill or lathe ...Leaking way oil:
I know there will be oil everywhere. Been there, done that. But I want to minimize it, if I can. I'm concerned about the long bolts that go through the bottom of the machine, then through the chip tray and through the top of the cabinet base.
Looks like Permatex Type-1 RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanized) Silicone Gasket Maker might do the trick. J-B Weld 31314 is also RTV.
Ideally a very little silicone would be needed where the bolt penetrates the chip pan and the cabinet base. But how to apply it.
I am thinking, after fully mounting the mill for positioning, with the pan and the cabinet minimally glued together, raise the mill, then apply only a little silicone where the bolt penetrates the holes.
Any thoughts would be welcome.
"Not using sealant around the mounting bolt holes will be a problem for you down the line, it is not about using coolant but all the oil that collects in the pan in particular around the open gearbox. Even with sealant I had some oil leak into the headstock cabinet, the silicone sealant did not hold up well to oil. When I remounted my lathe at a later point I went used polyurethane sealant, also put some under the bolt washer on the the lathe base. I have not had an issue since."
The 728VT is now sitting on the cabinet base, on top of a beat up pallet. The attachment bolts are just finger tight.
It was delivered on a double pallet: The mill was sitting on a non standard smaller pallet which in turn was on top of a large pallet. My Harbor Freight 2+ ton pallet jack fit the large pallet, but there was no way that it would fit the smaller pallet. Couldn't get it up there, nor get the small pallet down. Because the overall pallet was large, the Harbor Freight engine hoist was not usable. I elevated the hoist with jacks and scaffolding, but at 9 inches of elevation, it didn't look safe, so I abandon that approach.
I ended up using the home made gantry with an electric winch. That did the job ok, but I had to be carful.
I hand tightened the bolts for now. Tomorrow, I'll see about sealing the bolts so that oil does not leak into the cabinet.
Someone posted a video in which he built a pallet for the 728VT mill. That way he can use his pallet jack to move his mill. I have all my tools on wheels, other than the lathe which will stay where it is. But the mill is by far the heaviest of my tools, so I am thinking about building a hefty, standard pallet for it. One complication is that makes the work level higher. The work would have been high for my comfort to begin with and I would have used a platform, anyway. So building a higher platform is lot an issue. I'll decide tomorrow.
It needs to be functional so I can install the QCTP on the 1640TL.
I want to make some chips.
It was delivered on a double pallet: The mill was sitting on a non standard smaller pallet which in turn was on top of a large pallet. My Harbor Freight 2+ ton pallet jack fit the large pallet, but there was no way that it would fit the smaller pallet. Couldn't get it up there, nor get the small pallet down. Because the overall pallet was large, the Harbor Freight engine hoist was not usable. I elevated the hoist with jacks and scaffolding, but at 9 inches of elevation, it didn't look safe, so I abandon that approach.
I ended up using the home made gantry with an electric winch. That did the job ok, but I had to be carful.
I hand tightened the bolts for now. Tomorrow, I'll see about sealing the bolts so that oil does not leak into the cabinet.
Someone posted a video in which he built a pallet for the 728VT mill. That way he can use his pallet jack to move his mill. I have all my tools on wheels, other than the lathe which will stay where it is. But the mill is by far the heaviest of my tools, so I am thinking about building a hefty, standard pallet for it. One complication is that makes the work level higher. The work would have been high for my comfort to begin with and I would have used a platform, anyway. So building a higher platform is lot an issue. I'll decide tomorrow.
It needs to be functional so I can install the QCTP on the 1640TL.
I want to make some chips.