I like the way yours turned out. One question, on the thread on the handle where you changed from 3/8" thread to the M10, how did you make it longer? Did you drill and tap the handle and then make a threaed insert to thread in which protruded out further than the original or some other way? Just curious.

Thanks Mike.

Sorry, I guess I should have taken more pics & explained better on that part.

3/8" major is .375" & M10 is .392" so that was obviously the issue....

First I turned down the 3/8-16 thread to a dia smaller than the M10x1.5 minor.
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Then I made a new sleeve/slug & pressed it onto the turned down stud using an arbor press. I machined a few small shallow grooves on the shaft & added some red Loctite for good measure (I didn't have any purpose specific anerobic adhesive but threadlock has always worked fine for me in the past which is an anerobic adhesive anyway).

If you look closely at the base of the stud & compare to the pic above you can see the slug is a larger dia.
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Then I turned down the new slug to the dia I needed for the M10 thread & single pointed the thread.
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OK, so now you're making me feel bad for not machining the back of the wheels. Well maybe not... :lmao:

I too was thinking of painting the insides of the wheels black. To match my mill. :D

So, the final test: Do you like the feel of them over the plastic thingies?

My stock table handwheels attach with both using a center bolt & a set screw on the side. I decided to ditch the set screw & use the center bolt only so I needed the spline drive. Well I'm anal like that so I would have done it anyway. :)

A couple of guys have said not to paint it already. I really wanted to paint the centers black but then again the paint might wear off over time from my hands (the crenelated part is what I'm worried about). Plus it's chrome plated, paint does not like to stick to chrome but then again the area I would be painting has the sand cast finish. Maybe I'll just leave it or maybe I'll powder coat the centers later (I have a hook up through a friend).

But yes, I like the CI handwheels, anything metal is better than the stock bakelite handwheels that I wanted to replace since day one (the first pair of handwheels arrived chipped with the mill & so did the second replacement). Even though my quill fine feed handwheel was metal, I like the feel of the open CI handwheel much better. Thanks again for the idea that finally pushed me to replace them.

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Will, is this a 8" or 10" face plate? It appears to be cast iron is that correct? How did you mount it to the D1-4 camlock? I have been looking at constructing a setup like this. On my last lathe I had an 8" faceplate that threaded directly on to the spindle but I haven't seen a direct mount D1-4 so I am assuming a faceplate and then bolting it to a camlock mount but I would like to see how you did yours if you don't mind.

Thanks.

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Great. Thanks Will, I just stumbled across that same one after googling it.

I appreciate the quick response.
 
Mike, it's a 10" faceplate, cast iron, & it's a direct mount D1-4, it came with my lathe. I thought Matt included faceplates with all his lathes but it looks like it was optional for the PM1340GT?

Matt, does sell Taiwan made 10" D1-4 faceplates. This listing just ended but if you scroll down you can see the pics of it. http://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-1...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


Thanks for the info on that faceplate Will. I just got off the telephone with Nicole and have one coming as they had a couple left in stock.
 
Those wheels look great on your mill. Would you mine sharing where you got them and the sizes?
 
Those wheels look great on your mill. Would you mine sharing where you got them and the sizes?

Thanks.

The handwheels are made by Flair/Chang Iron, made in Taiwan. Grizzly had the lowest prices on them so I ordered from them. I wanted to match the sizes of my stock handwheels so I got 6" for the table & 4" for the quill fine feed.

I choose to go with revolving handles as opposed to fixed. Again I wanted to match my stock handwheel sizes so I did not go with the ones Grizzly sells. The Grizzly ones are longer than my stock ones plus I never was a fan of the pointy shaped handles like on my rotab. They hurt when you bump into them!

The revolving handles I got from ebay seller bjswoodworks, also made in Taiwan. The 6" handwheel is prethreaded for 3/8"-16, the 4" does not come prethreaded. I used 1/4"-20 for the 4".

Another thing that worked out great. The new handwheels are dished more than my stock ones. I use the protective cover for my table power feed limit switch. The cover would limit my Y-axis travel as it rubbed on my handwheel. With the new handwheels I have clearance so now I'm able to move the table all the way out to it's limit.

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I'm glad that worked out cause I was planning to make an extension for the handwheel. This is the test piece I cut before machining the handwheels. I'm glad I no longer need it to make an extension.

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Sorry it took so long.....

I'm no photographer so I'm not good with camera settings & capturing accurate photos but here they are. I put in the drill chuck to simulate something that would be in the way of lighting, hope it gives you a good idea.


With just overhead fluorescent lights.
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Mill's halogen light (50w)
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Spindle LED Light
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Halogen light + spindle light
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It's not a light question but I see you have a Mitutoyo digital mic. How do you like it and which model did you get? Every time I read one of your posts I see something I must get.

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It's not a light question but I see you have a Mitutoyo digital mic. How do you like it and which model did you get? Every time I read one of your posts I see something I must get.

Haha, sorry about that, it happens to me too!

I have the QuantuMikes. They are coolant proof but the main difference on these is they have rapid spindles so they turn much faster than other mics. I love them! I purchased them new.


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I use the QuantuMikes most of the time but for over 2" I scored an old set of 0-6" Accupros. They're no Mitus that I want but they're made in the USA & I got them brand new for only $200. I believe they are made by Scherr-Tumico. They'll be fine for me until I score a 0-6" Mitu set someday.

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