My PM45M-PDF

[zmotorsports]

Beautiful work as always Will.

 

[coolidge]

Very nice work!

 

[darkzero]

Thanks fellas!


Just wanted to add here how I modified my super spacer to bolt directly to my mill's table.

Super Spacer (Indexer) Adjustment

Here is how I used to mount it using a plate cause the mounting slots did not line up with my table slots. Post # 83

 

[darkzero]

Made a couple of tramming adjusting aids, no more using a mallet to poud on the head to move it & worrying about movement when tightening the nuts (well in theory).

Haven't tried them yet but I will soon. Hopefully they'll be ok, if they flex I can always make them beefier & left room for bigger bolts, I think they'll be ok though.

 

[coolidge]

Darkzero your machines...they are annoyingly clean! :man:

 

[sanddan]

How exactly does it work? Is this for getting the tilt back to zero? I would love to have an aid for tilting the main column to get that trammed in.

 

[darkzero]

How exactly does it work? Is this for getting the tilt back to zero? I would love to have an aid for tilting the main column to get that trammed in.

Yes, they are used only for getting back to zero, used as fine adjustment after getting close to zero. The arms are threaded on the head side for set screws. To use them you loosen the head bolts, then loosen one set screw & tightewn the other set screw to move the head one direction & vise versa. I added nuts for locking the set screws but they're probably not needed.

These RF45 style mills don't have any means of fine adjusting like BPs do. Whenever I trammed the head I would have to use a mallet on the head to move it. The head is pretty hefty so when I got close to zero, any additional miniscule adjustments took more time than I'm used to spending on it.

 

[darkzero]

Thanks to Bill (wrmiller) I decided to to replace my stock handwheels. I replaced the stock phenolic/bakelite wheels with some cast iron wheels. They weren't a bolt on solution so here's how I did it.


Stock:

New handwheels (I replaced the X, Y, quill, & handle for the Z).

WIP pics:

The revolving handles I used are 3/8-16" thread. My Z handle (head) is metric M10 so I turned down the threads, pressed on a sleeve, & rethreaded for the metric threads. Had to make a collet to hold the handle.

I made the M10 thread longer than the 3/8" thread.

Installed.

Next was the quill fine feed handwheel. It did not come prethreaded for the handle so I had to drill & tap the 1/4-20 threads. Bored the center to fit my quill feed shaft & drilled & tapped for the set screw.

Next was to machine the X & Y handwheels. The new cast iron handwheels had a much larger hub dia than my stock ones so I machined them down. Also had to bore the center. Unmachined as received on the left.

Machined the drive to match.

Finally, mounted.

My idea was to paint the center black. I may still do that, haven't decided yet. I really like the new handwheels and no more rattling from the damn stock handles when making moderate to heavy cuts.

 

[zmotorsports]

Looks great as alway Will. I had purchased some BP style ball-crank handles on ebay that I was going to use on my PM932 when I ordered it. After changing my order to the PM935 knee mill I sold the ball crank style handles to a guy on the forum who was going to put them on his PM932/45 mill.

I like the way yours turned out. One question, on the thread on the handle where you changed from 3/8" thread to the M10, how did you make it longer? Did you drill and tap the handle and then make a threaed insert to thread in which protruded out further than the original or some other way? Just curious.

 

[wrmiller]

OK, so now you're making me feel bad for not machining the back of the wheels. Well maybe not... :lmao:

I too was thinking of painting the insides of the wheels black. To match my mill.

So, the final test: Do you like the feel of them over the plastic thingies?