My South Bend 9 compound !! - Wha......aaaaahh !!

Here is how my 16" was fixed by a PO.


View attachment 341479
Yes - carving off one side back to flat, and bolting on a new top T-slot overhang is a tidy fix. On my picture, it seems the break managed to stay just above the underside of the T-slot level - very close, but a miss is a good as a mile here! So this fix seems OK for my situation.
 
I found this one on eBay in UK --> South Bend 9 Lathe - for parts eBay
Whole chunks of it are already sold, Apparently the cross slide is there, but the compound is not specifically mentioned.
Maybe the cross slide and compound are being thought of as a single piece.
So - what would be a reasonable guess at how much the cross slide (or compound) is worth?

The option to simply repair as suggested by @Superburban is OK with me, but if I can score a reasonable replacement, that is OK too.

[Edit: Update: The eBay seller replied. The compound is gone. He only has the cross slide left]
 
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I did some silver solder brazing last weekend and used my gas bbq to preheat/controlled cooling. Turned out okay, I’ve brazed sheet metal before but cast iron made me more nervous.

John
 
Here's a used one. http://www.lostcreekmachine.com/south_bend_lathe_parts.htm

MLA makes Cross-Slide Castings, unfortunately not Compounds. https://mlatoolbox.com/index.html

I thought there was another company that had "College" in its name that also sold raw casting for the SB Lathes, but I can't seem to find it.
Thanks so much . I will give them a try, and see how they feel about FedEx or something shipping to UK.
International shipping is something that seems easy-peasy from China (or anywhere) if bought on eBay, but it gets a bit fraught from USA.

It is now gone 01:00 here, so I will have to take it up with them when the planet has turned further.
 
If you use nickel rod to weld cast iron the are two types of rod. One is machinable and the other is not. Stitch weld it in about one inch beads then peen with a ball peen hammer while it cools a little. The trick is not to over heat the casting. Just do a small section at a time . Don't peen too hard just enough on the filler nickel to not pull away from the cast iron as it cools a little. The casting will still be hot so bury it in something like wood ashes so it cools slowly. If all goes right the casting won't warp and the nickel will bind to the cast iron. Brazing will also work ,but the casting may warp from the higher heat needed to braze the casting.
 
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