My Used - Newly Acquired - BANDSAW

Welcome to the forum. Lots of friendly people on here willing to share their experiences and offer advice. Don't be afraid to ask any question no matter how simple it may seem to be.

If you don't have a copy of the owners manual here is a link to the manual. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/735970/Delta-28-195.html

What boat are you planning to build?

While this saw may not be the best for what you want to do it is what you have. I think your biggest problem will be keeping a 16' long board aligned with the saw blade. Since you will be scarfing the joints anyway you might want to consider using 8' boards. I have had problems in the past cutting long stock on my radial arm saw and on a table saw. To over come this I replaced the table on my radial arm saw with a piece 3/4" plywood 8' long. Really made a difference in being able to control the cut on long stock. You will need a fence. A 1x4 on edge should be high enough. And you will need to make something to keep the board against the fence as you make the cut. Has to be adjustable because the width of the board will change with each cut. I did a quick search and didn't find a long table for a band saw. I did find a bunch of long tables for a miter saw. You could adapt these ideas for a band saw table. https://www.guidepatterns.com/diy-miter-saw-table-plans.php

Post some picture of your setup so people can offer suggestions. Have fun with your project.
 
I do some resawing, mostly making book matched panels for cabinet doors. I've lately been using 8 tpi 1/2 inch wide blades. Find they give a beter finish to the cut that requires less planing and seam to cut straighter. The finer set wastes less wood too.The down side is they cut slower, a lot slower tan a 4 tpi 1 inch wide blade but culled a lot more panels where the blade wandered. Im using an 18 inch general saw with a 3 hp motor so power isn't an issue.

Greg
 
Welcome to Sawmill Cree..., whoops sorry. I mean welcome to Hobby Machinist! I think there are a number of us "cross-overs" here that do both woodworking and machining. Resist the urge to break out your micrometer to assure you got that last 1/64" off the wood thickness. :) I agree with the folks above that it might be a challenge to resaw your boards using that saw, but not impossible. The long boards will be tougher even.

Years ago I read about a technique used to overcome the drift of a band-saw blade when resawing using a fence. I have used it ever since and it seems to work well. Different blades drift one way or the other which may be due to asymmetrical sharpening. The technique is to run a squared-up piece of wood through the blade following a pencil line that bisects the board thickness. Follow the line closely and stop halfway through the cut. The board should now be at the angle at which you need to place the fence. It might be a degree or three left or right of square to the table. If you change blades, repeat.

Also, use the widest and sharpest blade you can. Resawing with a dull blade is very frustrating.
 
I'm very happy to have received all this feedback! Retired, and 59 years old,
I have plenty of time daily to work through my project. I've watched some videos
of guys doing resawing with hand tools only. Slow going? Yes. Did the job get
done? Yes. So I figured, perhaps in error, with this 10 inch saw I should be able
to make the resew cuts at least as fast I I could do them by hand, BUT NOT WORK
THAT HARD. I'll be factoring in all the info that you've collectively offered above.
Which boat am I building? Undecided at this second. I intend to cut planks of cheap
wood initially, and learn the various skills required, before I invest in plans. I've time
to slowly move forward.
:pickaxe:
 
Yup, if you’ve got the time and the desire you can do lots of things. Maybe not the fastest way, but a way nonetheless.

This is what’s left of a particularly handsome slab of curled and quilted Western maple I bought from a dealer when I was more into woodwork. It came to me as about four feet long and just over 2” thick, and not including the wane on the edges it’s in the neighbourhood of 17” wide. Believe it or not I resawed this slab, by hand using a 6-point Disston rip saw, into two 1” thick slabs each 17” wide and 4 feet long. I think it took me about a week of evenings and I sharpened my saw about three times before I got done, but I did it.

8A401AD1-8708-470C-BC8B-1B04F2FE761A.jpeg

F2B44971-BBCB-4D77-8B1A-3A6BA242FA97.jpeg

So good luck with your project! You can get there if you want it bad enough.

-frank
 
AdvenJack said:
I'm very happy to have received all this feedback! Retired, and 59 years old,
I have plenty of time daily to work through my project. I've watched some videos
of guys doing resawing with hand tools only. Slow going? Yes. Did the job get
done? Yes. So I figured, perhaps in error, with this 10 inch saw I should be able
to make the resew cuts at least as fast I I could do them by hand, BUT NOT WORK
THAT HARD. I'll be factoring in all the info that you've collectively offered above.
Which boat am I building? Undecided at this second. I intend to cut planks of cheap
wood initially, and learn the various skills required, before I invest in plans. I've time
to slowly move forward.
:pickaxe:
Click to expand...
I'm so glad you took it how I meant it and how I think most of us meant it. I'm one who doesn't have unlimited resources and some time to invest in something that I can fix up. But what I appreciated about your first post is you told us what your goal is. So few do and without info it's close to impossible to be helpful.

As you can see we have a really deep bench in football parlance here and they can steer you towards the minimum needed equipment if you ask before you leap. All of us love to help each other buy more tools. And everybody has to start somewhere.
 
Using 1/4" thick planks 16' long to build a boat indicates to me that you are thinking of a dinghy with a 14' foot length over all give or take. Before I got into this machining hobby I was heavily involved with racing sailboats and then went cruising for 7 years. Have done lots of boat repair and even made a 10' stitch and glue dinghy.

Mother's Day 08, Baja 08 012.jpg

I made it out of 1/4" plywood with epoxy to hold everything together. I started with Sam Devlin's plans which I modified to be a hard chine deep V hull to handle the nasty chop that builds up in most anchorages when the wind comes up. You might want to consider making your boat out of plywood. Obtaining straight grain clear 2x6x16' lumber is going to be very expensive. And you will lose a lot of the wood when resawing. Very few dinghies are made out lumber these days due to the high cost of the lumber. Most are now made out of plywood. The primary exception to this are strip planked canoes and kayaks made from 3/8" strips of cedar.

Building a boat is a fun project. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
Good News For All: I've now seen guys on videos using a table saw to do portions of the resawing work on every board! Start with
my basic "learning" board. (2x6 and 16 feet long, so it's true height is 5.5 inches) On a table saw make a full, 16' length, kerf cut,
2 inches deep, into one of the 1.5" wide edges.Then flip the board, and into the opposite 1.5" edge, make a second kerf cut 2 inches
deep, directly aligned with the first kerf cut. The result will be, that ONLY the center portion of the board remains to be cut with the
little Delta *10 inch bandsaw, and the thickness of that remaining wood is just 1.5", the same as any typical rip cut or cross cut!! Hooray! :encourage:

To mickri: You're right about the "dinghy"! Ultimately, the end result length may be longer than 14 feet by scarfing two planks end
to end. It may turn out that I scarf 8 footers to the 16 footers, and with the bending wind up losing 4-7 feet of length, resulting in a
boat of no more than 20 feet. It'll still be totally OPEN, (deckless) so pretty much a long "dinghy"! On YOUTUBE, if you type ROGER
BARNES in the search box, you see a British guy doing what I hope to do, with his "Cruising Dinghy" of about 15 feet. I'm over 6'1"
and over 250 pounds, so I want just a few more feet of length than ROGER has. In the video clip Roger is not LIVING FULL TIME in
his DINGHY; he camps out in it! ROGER BARNES ON YOUTUBE
The thickness of the planks might need to be increased to the point that, by starting with a board 1.5 inches thick, I resaw twice,
producing 3 planks of equal thickness, about 0.4 of an inch thick, (1 centimeter thick).

To francist: Your post about hand resawing that nice wood that you obtained, is certainly an example of PERSEVERANCE !!! :applause 2:

To C-Bag: (originally by you: "I'm so glad you took it how I meant it and how I think most of us meant it....") Thank you. :eagerness: In the past
I've participated on other forums, based on a number of different interests that come and go in my brain, on no predictable sched-
ule. o_O With that experience I've learned that when we type out posts, they don't always perfectly communicate what we are hoping
to communicate. No inflection in voice is heard of course, and English can have multiple meanings to someone reading, and at times,
even when heard! [example: John punched Bill in the face. Then he hit him with a hammer. So, did Bill retaliate against John, by hit-
ting John with a hammer? Or, did John continue his attack on Bill, by hitting Bill with a hammer after punching Bill?] Even though there
is a grammar rule telling us who swung the hammer in the statement in bold, and so, who was hit with the hammer, most of us are not
"English Majors". (Me included! I was never a teacher either, as honorable as that profession is!) "The witness", who gave the above
answer in bold, may not know that grammar rule; and as a result, he may not have said, what he intended to communicate! The people
on the jury may not know the grammar rule; the judge, and the lawyers may not know the grammar rule. I guarantee, that if a guy was
"on the witness stand", and he was asked what he saw, and he answered exactly as I typed out in bold above, the questioning lawyer
would immediately ask the witness to point at, and or name the man who swung the hammer; and, to point at, and or name the man,
who was hit with the hammer; because the answer, (in bold above) won't make the facts clear to the jury, nor to anyone else! (And NO !
I am NOT a lawyer! Praise BE ! :cheerful: Though I had to work somewhat closely with them during my career.)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top