My van norman 12

Ed,

a Van Norman #12 is 1800 pounds.
It can be broken up into assemblies. The lightest assembly is the base/column, which is around 800 pounds. The base separates from the column, with difficulty. There are about 6 screws that go from the roof of the base/coolant area up into the column, and two indexing pins. If you want to know how to separate, I can advise further. You need special sockets and a breaker bar to do it. Don't do what I did and rock the assembly, or you will break off one of the index pins like I did. The base is about 450 pounds, and the column about 350 pounds. The ram is about 200 pounds. The knee is around 150 pounds, and the table is around 100-150 pounds.

Nelson
 
Cayuse,

You need an overarm support casting. Nearly impossible to find on Ebay- they go for outrageous prices $300 or so.

Almost impossible to get an unbroken right handwheel support casting. We may make some based on the #16 casting which is sturdier at some point.

Nelson
 
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I was albeit to move the VN myself with and engine crane.

There are two K&T mills on Craig's list in Va for $500.00, but I don't know what they weigh.

Nelson
 
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Nelson:

Thanks for ALL the information you provided. Those were some of the questions I PM'd you about the other day when I ask to pick your brain. Unbelievably helpful!!

I guess I need to ask how to disassemble and remove the RAM assembly and the table from the machine for painting.

I purchased some POR 15 paint, just the sampler kit (color gray) a few weeks ago was going to try it on some of the smaller parts to see how it goes. I was told the SILVER POR 15 is thicker and has better filling capability, maybe better for the rougher areas. Would love to hear from any experienced POR 15 users: do's and don'ts, the good, bad and ugly, and anything else. I want it to look nice; but, I will be using it like you not sending it to the Smithsonian, and I'm on a tight budget (aren't we all).

The old motor that's in the photos is Kaput so I intend to replace it with a 2 HP craftsman motor model # 113.12025, unless someone would recommend otherwise. I need to figure the sheave diameter to reduce the motor rpm to the factory recommended rpm spec of 1140 rpm at the gearbox drive shaft. I am fabricating a new motor base mounting plate that will bring the center of the new motor drive shaft up to the same height when mounted on the machine as was the old one. If you foresee any problems with what I've outlined above, please advise me.

I will post later about the overarm casting and some other stuff I have questions about, need to take some photos so you know what I'm talking about.

Again, thanks much,

Cayuse
 
Cayuse,


I didn't answer in PM because I want the answers on the forum so we can provide the information to others, instead of just keeping it to ourselves.

PLEASE post your progress on here so all can see it!

Thanks!


Nelson
 
Nelson:

I just didn't want to take up space and people's time unnecessarily. I WILL be happy to post my progress, just let me know if I get to be taking too much space and time.

Cayuse
 
cayusedriver link=topic=3759.msg27692#msg27692 date=1317388271 said:
Nelson:

I guess I need to ask how to disassemble and remove the RAM assembly and the table from the machine for painting.
I
Click to expand...


I don't know what POR paint is. I use either Rustoleum or Benjamin Moore Alkyd M-22 I think it is.

Remove the table first. I think just removed the handwheels, brackets, stop mechanism, and the gib under the table between the feed mechanism and the table. There are some hard to see setscrews as I recall. If you need a parts diagram, I will download it here from the downloads directory we have. I removed the connection to the feed mechanism and slid it out. I am working from memory, so I am fuzzy on specifics. I couldn't hold it, so I put the sling around the middle and used the engine crane to move it and set it down on some wood. It weighs over 100 pounds. I am 53, not as powerful as I used to be.

Ram casting. OK. This is from memory, so I will probably leave something out. Remove overarm and support. You will need to put your sling through the casting where the overarm was on your engine crane. The ram is very heavy, and you need the lift. Remove all jib screws and binders, and set them aside in a cup where you can find them. Using the removable crank, crank the ram as far as it will go on the ram lead screw. Then crank the sling tight so the engine crane will hold the ram. Then I pushed the ram off the dovetails- it might stick a bit. Make sure all gibs and binders are off. It will swing off if everything holding it is removed. Guide it carefully so it doesn't hit anything. Once off, move it onto some wood 4x4s.

The knee is the same idea. The one thing I recall is the gib screws are a witch. Do not tighten them or you will crack the gib. Work slowly and carefully until the lead screw for the Z movement that goes through the base casting is all holding it, then lift it off with the engine crane. It is heavy, but not as heavy as the ram or table.

Work slowly and OBSERVE what is holding things up BEFORE you move things. Make sure everything is held back by your crane. Don't force anything for gosh sake, you will break something. If things stick, then use penetrating oil (Kroil is BEST) on them and let them soak for a day.

Reference the photos of my disqassembly on here. And then check out Weeble's photos on here also of his restoration. Good stuff. Also, do a search of the VN Yahoo group on VN disassembly. Someone outlined the steps quickly AND a guy on there named Franklyn has an album showing SOME of the steps he used to disassemble his #12, and he is a good guy who can help you also. Man, I read EVERYTHING before I touched mine, and it went well. I have done two of them now, so I have a handle on how to disassemble it in a few hours.

Nelson
 
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