Need Help Replacing Bearings In Old Lathe

Marv

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I need help replacing the Head turret Bearings in an old Lathe we use for making the dowel for tripod legs. The MFG & Model plate is worn/faded and is unknown. See photos.

Usually I can figure these things out... but this one has me stumped. overview.jpg L Bearing.jpg R Bearing.jpg CU Logo.jpg Brake.jpg Can anyone tell me what would be involved please?

CU Logo.jpg L Bearing.jpg overview.jpg R Bearing.jpg
 
Marv,
Welcome to the forums. Swing is the largest diameter of workpiece that can be safely turned in the lathe. Here's a link to a page that discusses various Atlas models:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/index.html
Also, there should be a number and letter cast into the bed of the lathe. On my much newer and much smaller Atlas there's also a serial number and model plate on the right end of the bed.


Steve Shannon, P.E.
 
Many bearings have an industry standard number etched into the outer race. This can help identify the size, load, tolerance and seal type in some cases. If you can at least describe the inner, outer race dimensions, the thickness, and seal type, you should be able to find one that will work. Photos would be helpful once you disassemble the headstock. Remember, the housing and gears are cast iron and are very brittle. pulleys, bearings and gears that are tight or pressed on should be heated with a plumbing torch until they move freely. PB Blaster penetrating oil works well to get started. Work carefully and take lots of photos.

http://www.vxb.com/ bearing supplier
 
I would do a little disassembly here. With the oilers on top it could be brass bushings and they may be adjustable or shimable.
Is there a lot of play on the shaft?
 
Marv,
Welcome to the forums. Swing is the largest diameter of workpiece that can be safely turned in the lathe. Here's a link to a page that discusses various Atlas models:
http://www.lathes.co.uk/atlas/index.html
Also, there should be a number and letter cast into the bed of the lathe. On my much newer and much smaller Atlas there's also a serial number and model plate on the right end of the bed.


Steve Shannon, P.E.

Thanks for the info & link Steve.

I suspected that's what it meant. I will check those locations the next time I'm in the shop. It appears to be a 10F from your link.
I had to replace the back cracked pulley wheel and cleaned the bearings etc while I was at it, so that part is in great condition now. Just need to figure out the front part as those bearings are very noisy.
 
Marv now that you know it is and Atlas, if you go over to the Atlas forum there are a number of very knowledgeable folks there that can help you.

David
 
I would do a little disassembly here. With the oilers on top it could be brass bushings and they may be adjustable or shimable.
Is there a lot of play on the shaft?


The oilers are a big clue... but I can’t figure out how to disassemble anything on that end, it's not like the bolt on bearing in the link by Steve.

As for shaft play... I didn't try that as it seemed pretty solid... and there is no Head play (spindle play)... and I mean no play. I have a Dowel cutting tool in there that doesn’t move more than 1/40,000 as you hand rotate the head spindle.
 
Many bearings have an industry standard number etched into the outer race. This can help identify the size, load, tolerance and seal type in some cases. If you can at least describe the inner, outer race dimensions, the thickness, and seal type, you should be able to find one that will work. Photos would be helpful once you disassemble the headstock. Remember, the housing and gears are cast iron and are very brittle. pulleys, bearings and gears that are tight or pressed on should be heated with a plumbing torch until they move freely. PB Blaster penetrating oil works well to get started. Work carefully and take lots of photos.

http://www.vxb.com/ bearing supplier

Thanks John for the good information. I will keep that info handy.
 
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