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New 12z Owner Here

January Project of the Month [3]
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Chris Bettis

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I did notice if you do plan to repaint my stand and chip tray match almost perfectly. I used VHT roll bar and chassis black from O'Riley's auto parts

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wrmiller

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Yea, I like that chip tray. If I ever pull the mill off it's stand I may hire you to make me a new one. :D
 

Chris Bettis

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Yea, I like that chip tray. If I ever pull the mill off it's stand I may hire you to make me a new one. :D
Honestly yours looks way better. And the hole is already cut now. If you really want to match I have some silver paint left over.

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wrmiller

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Oh, I forgot. It was a good thing I decided to tear the mill down because I discovered the Y-axis nut was slightly loose and already starting to tilt and wear funny.

So I would have been tearing the mill down anyway.
 

Chris Bettis

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Ok I started the flush with wd40 copious amounts of black casting sand came out no way i can realistically flush clean table and saddle are coming off. Guess she will be getting an extremely in depth tune up before going into service.

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Chris Bettis

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Lost of cleaning and de burring done. Thank god for a parts washer! Saddle is back on! Y gib is in lead screw is alligned and tight buttery smooth now. 1b12d74e602f0d4844a088788b934829.jpg

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wrmiller

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Looking real good. Yea, a parts washer is on my 'required' list of things to get next year. Just received my little bench top blasting cabinet last week. Slowly getting there...
 

wrmiller

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Any plans to mod your new mill with a DRO or anything? Or are you going to enjoy it as is for a while?
 

Chris Bettis

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Dro as soon as i can afford it. Then id like a 3phase motor and belt drive.

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Chris Bettis

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Looking real good. Yea, a parts washer is on my 'required' list of things to get next year. Just received my little bench top blasting cabinet last week. Slowly getting there...
Keep that cabinet on the opposite side of the garage. Typically with mine anything within 6 feet of it gets sandy.

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wrmiller

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Keep that cabinet on the opposite side of the garage. Typically with mine anything within 6 feet of it gets sandy.
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Which DRO are you looking at, if you don't mind my asking?

Duly noted regarding the cabinet, thanks. I will be using glass beads in mine, more for putting a finish/texture on small parts than anything, but I suspect those will blow around and get into everything as well. A good mask will be a must. It is a cheap cabinet, from Grizzly. I will attempt to seal it a bit better if I can. Any suggestions?

You will definitely be wanting the X-axis power feed once you start cranking that table back and forth any appreciable distance. For an Old Guy like me it was a necessity. As I've said before, the 3hp/VFD upgrade, coupled with the belt drive upgrade REALLY changes this mill. Day and night IMO. Once you dump the significant parasitic losses of a bunch of gears swimming in a oil bath you can really spool that spindle up to some decent RPMs. Spooky quiet too. When the time comes, make sure that Paul sends you the upgraded spindle bearings with the motor/VFD upgrade as that by itself will give you the speeds on the right side of your spindle rpm chart. When you do the belt drive conversion, you get to replace the front plate on the head and throw that spindle rpm chart away. :D
 

Chris Bettis

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Which DRO are you looking at, if you don't mind my asking?

Duly noted regarding the cabinet, thanks. I will be using glass beads in mine, more for putting a finish/texture on small parts than anything, but I suspect those will blow around and get into everything as well. A good mask will be a must. It is a cheap cabinet, from Grizzly. I will attempt to seal it a bit better if I can. Any suggestions?

You will definitely be wanting the X-axis power feed once you start cranking that table back and forth any appreciable distance. For an Old Guy like me it was a necessity. As I've said before, the 3hp/VFD upgrade, coupled with the belt drive upgrade REALLY changes this mill. Day and night IMO. Once you dump the significant parasitic losses of a bunch of gears swimming in a oil bath you can really spool that spindle up to some decent RPMs. Spooky quiet too. When the time comes, make sure that Paul sends you the upgraded spindle bearings with the motor/VFD upgrade as that by itself will give you the speeds on the right side of your spindle rpm chart. When you do the belt drive conversion, you get to replace the front plate on the head and throw that spindle rpm chart away. :D
Id like to get a fagor f40I with the fancy display screen. But 2500 dollar dro on a 2500dollar machine is overkill.

I use ultra fine glass in mine as well.

And yeah that belt drive is a badass. I think Paul mentioned they replaced the bearings already but ill have to double check on that.


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wrmiller

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If you want a cool touch-screen display, you might want to take a gander at the DroPros EL700. Magnetic scales that you can trim to any length, and you can buy the kit for either the column/head or the quill.

And about $800 bucks cheaper than the Fagor.

As you saw on my DRO, I went on the column/head for my Z-axis but later added a scale on the quill for milling pockets. If I had it to do over I probably would have just ponied up for the 4-axis EL700 and called it done. Even that is 500 bucks cheaper than the Fagor.

Hindsight is always 20/20...
 

Chris Bettis

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If you want a cool touch-screen display, you might want to take a gander at the DroPros EL700. Magnetic scales that you can trim to any length, and you can buy the kit for either the column/head or the quill.

And about $800 bucks cheaper than the Fagor.

As you saw on my DRO, I went on the column/head for my Z-axis but later added a scale on the quill for milling pockets. If I had it to do over I probably would have just ponied up for the 4-axis EL700 and called it done. Even that is 500 bucks cheaper than the Fagor.

Hindsight is always 20/20...
Ill have to look into them. Id like something that will be accurate in the tenths. Those fagor .01 micron scales are mighty fancy. But like I said overkill for most all machines.

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wrmiller

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I have .0001 resolution on my lathe cross slide, everything else on all of my other machines is .0002
 

David VanNorman

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I am looking to buy a new mill . How is CO to do business with ? How do the machines hold up? I'm not a pro just a ham and egger but I want something decent. I also want a machine I can power tap with and not cost an arm and a leg.
 

maker of things

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I finally got my table and saddle off yesterday. Didn't find any sand or gunk behind my gibs. I did file some sharp edges, not because it really needed it but out of peer pressure.Flustered They were just on the bottom side. That bondo sucks for taking the end plates off.

On my machine the max clearance between the bottom of the table to the flat of the saddle on the rough cast part is 1.85" The ballnut for the 25mm ballscrews is 1.9" I will be machining my saddle to accept the x nut and it can't be done on the G0704 which I think is the same window as PM25, so Bill you will either need a friend nearby with another 12z ;)or plan on 20mm screws.

As long as you have a tapmatic style tapping head. Maybe the belt drive version has instant reverse, but any machine I have seen running a single phase motor won't instant reverse.
 

wrmiller

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I can/have machined the saddle on the PM25, but can't machine the table. But then I don't have 1" screws either. They are about the same size as the screws I took off. I'll mike 'em today when I get out to the garage.

EDIT: Nope, these are smaller screws than the originals. About .785. As I have no experience with ball screws I'm not sure what the ramifications are of that, if any.
 
Last edited:

maker of things

Hermit
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I can/have machined the saddle on the PM25, but can't machine the table. But then I don't have 1" screws either. They are about the same size as the screws I took off. I'll mike 'em today when I get out to the garage.

EDIT: Nope, these are smaller screws than the originals. About .785. As I have no experience with ball screws I'm not sure what the ramifications are of that, if any.
So you are already in process with a ball screw conversion on the 12z?

I was just looking at dros for the grinder I got, what drew you to the magnetic vs glass scales?
 

wrmiller

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Yup, (see my thread 1 year update). :)

I may have mis-spoke. I have glass scales on my mills, magnetic on the lathe. Both from DroPros (actually my LMS mini mill also had a DroPros glass scale kit as well). The glass scales have worked great, and I don't use any flood coolant on the mills so I figured the glass would be good enough and save me a few bucks in the process. For the 1340GT I decided to pony up for the EL400 (?) so I could trim the scales to fit and also just in case I decide to put a coolant system on this thing.
 

tlmartin84

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Looks good!

How is the stand holding up? Any flex or wobble? Seem pretty sturdy?

I plan to use the same size tubing (I have 24' just lying here). I think it will be more than sufficient, but I also see a lot of overkill here too............ wanted to make sure.

Thanks
 
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