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New to me baby, 847 Wells Index

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markba633csi

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'63, a relative young'un
I like the way they did the head castings on that one
 

Chainsaw Driver

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Update: I got her cleaned up better and can read the stamps better, looks like 1981 model, not sure how I got 1963 out of 81 anyway she's got decades of oil and grime on her. Getting that off takes time. I removed the 6" riser block and she's a bit more manageable now. Still working my way through her, found the R8 alignment pin broke off so I'm trying to figure out how to get that apart. She also has a bit of tick on the top side and cannot tell what's causing it. Going to start pulling the upper head apart this evening. If anyone knows why it's ticking that would be great. I'm working my way along slowly.
 

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Karl_T

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That could be something a simple as the belt taking a set from being in one place too long (years??)

I have a Wells also. They are a bit better built than the Bridgeport IMHO.
 

Chainsaw Driver

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I found what's ticking but am uncertain what to do about it. There's a cam with a through bolt above the main drive pulley. The cam moves with the speed adjustment lever to apply varying pressure to the adjustable pulley. The bolt and cam do not appear to join tightly and as a consequence the cam piece moves back and forth against it's stops and creates the rattle. I didn't tear it al the way down yet but am considering doing so this weekend. I fell certain it should not be doing that. The this action will wear the parts out at some point. I didn't get to call Wells this week to ask about it but will do so next week.
 

Karl_T

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I found what's ticking but am uncertain what to do about it.
turn the radio up :) then you won't hear it.

That may be what's behind speed adjustment on my Wells. It is rough to change speeds, so I just installed a VFD and quit moving the sheaves.
 

Chainsaw Driver

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:)

If your lever is hard to move, just loosen the four screws at the top. They control the tension of the adjustment mechanism. When I got mine, the handle was so loose it wouldn't hold its setting and they had a wire on it to hold it in place. The manual addresses this issue and says to tighten the screws slightly, I did so and it works great. It sounds like yours is too tight. Manuals are available from Wells Index or on Vintage Machinery.org.
 

Bob Korves

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You will probably have to drop the quill and spindle to get to the pin, if it is done like a Bridgeport. Many mill users prefer to not have that pin operational in their mills. I am not one of them. It is faster and easier to change collets without it, but it also means that collets can spin in the spindle, and possibly damage it.
 

jdedmon91

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My Lagun has it’s pin removed before I purchased it. While like Bob I prefer to have it, the missing pin isn’t worth the work to put one in. I use mine a lot and haven’t really missed it


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Chainsaw Driver

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Thank you for the comments on the pin, according to Wells, I can access the pin by removing the lower spanner nut and pulling the brass bushing down. I did that and can see where the pin goes and may be able to get it in there without pulling the quill. Still waiting on parts to arrive, I'll write back when I know for certain.
 

Chainsaw Driver

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Finally received the parts and put everything back in order. The pin is a snap to install. drop the nut, pull the sleeve down and take a pair of tweezers and install it. Literally a two minute fix. Also of note, I've come to the conclusion the ticking issue is normal for Wells machines. I spent some time listening to Keith Rucker's 847 run in his Youtube videos and his makes the exact same sound. I think it may be a normal thing.
 
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