New To Me Mckenzie Lathe

I haven't miced it but here are some pictures of the bearing surfaces. I'm pretty sure that thrust washer is no good I'll probably have to make a new one...
All the surfaces pass the finger nail test except the thrust faces and the front cone pulley surface. The cone pulleys do not have removable bearings just a bore to the correct size.

This is front bearing surface (closest to the chuck) and you can also see the thrust bearing surface which is pretty bady scored
IMG_20170122_214649.jpg this is the front bearing surface for the cone pulleys, also very scored and correct me if I'm wrong but isn't as critical as the spindle bearing surfaces? IMG_20170122_214636.jpg
This is the rear bearing surfaces for the cone pulley (larger diameter) and the bearing this seem to be in much better condition than the front.IMG_20170122_214826.jpg this is the thrust face of the top half of the front bearing cap. Should I file this smooth and finish with fine sand paper?IMG_20170122_215159.jpg and this is the thrust washer, the face that's chewed up was towards the cone pulleys the other side was against the spindle bearing. IMG_20170122_215449.jpg IMG_20170122_215442.jpg
 
the spindle doesn't look horrible, scored yes, but you may have to run what you got.
the cap and thrust washer should be resurfaced, a thrust washer should be constructed to replace the material that is removed.
i'd consider a plate of glass and some wet/dry sandpaper starting at 100(or so) grit polishing up to 400 (or so) grit
use a figure 8 pattern and rotating every few passes and using up as much of the real estate on the sandpaper as possible.
a block of wood could be made into a anti slip work holder with a little forethought.
i have used a blocks of wood with scotchbrite glued to it, for extra traction on the workholding, when lapping in this method .

the bearing cap can be done, but special attention should be paid to keeping the thrust surface perpendicular as possible on both halves of the caps
 
Ok, that's easy enough, looks like the thrust washer is made of regular mild steel what are your thoughts on making it out of brass/bronze instead?
And what are your thoughts on removing the bearings to clean behind them? Worth it not worth it?
Well I'm off to princess auto to get a few supplies and make some progress! I just layed down the first coat on the headstock yesterday so crunch time is coming up fast! Lol

IMG_20170123_202314.jpg
 
bronze, phenolic and delrin all make excellent thrust washers.
i doubt cleaning behind the bearings will bring a lot of benefit, but if you got that itch- by all means scratch it.
i don't know thi i would expend the energy if they are stuck in there
 
I'd really like to those pits on the bearing look almost like casting porosities but I don't think that's a cast part at all but if it's not gonna make a difference I'll just leave it I am afraid if I do take it apart perhaps it won't go back together they're pretty tight in there...
 
Well that makes me feel a little better about it then I honestly thought they where turned on another lathe or something like that. I'll just clean them as best I can the way they sit and re-assemble once the paint dries :)
 
Well I just got a chance to measure oil clearance for the bearings seems like it's got about .003" and if I take the shims out I've got nothing. Should I use a thinner shim and try to get it into the 1-2thou range or should I just leave it where it is?
 
Use a thinner shim. Get the clearance around the .0010-.0015". It runs hot, add another .0005". If it chatter too much from parting tool, may need to take out some.
 
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