Nickel and gold electroplating

tq60

H-M Supporter - Gold Member
H-M Supporter Gold Member
Joined
Jan 11, 2014
Messages
2,226
We have some Atmos clocks where folks buffed the gold off.

These usually are replated via electroplating, but do not want to send in the clock to get serviced so we can pay too much to get the plating done.

These are brass base metal to likely do not need a primer coat like nickel, but that may allow for a more consistent finish.

We nickel plated a penny 50 years ago, but that was using coins, not too good.

There are plenty of options, different brands, dip type and brush type.

The top frame is maybe 8 by 5 inches so maybe brush type?

Has anyone else went down this road?

The dip type claim to plate in seconds, but how much does one get in a bottle?

Lots to learn, we would rather learn all of the wrong ways...

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
Lots of good youtube videos on Nickle plating. Looks pretty easy overall. As for gold on top of that. I have no idea other than it sounds very expensive.
 
I e done nickel plating and it is fairly easy with the right tools. I would look at Caldwell plating they have the materials and sell kits for every type of plating. Site is very informative too.
All the plating I’ve done has been in a bath that you make and yes it transforms right infront of your eyes in seconds. Pretty cool!
 
+1 on Caswell Plating kits. Here's a link to their website:


I've had very good luck with their nickel plating kit which I've had for 20 years. I've also had good luck with their Plug 'n Plate brass and nickel kits though I get more of an antique brass finish with that kit.

It is a "commitment"; 1 1/2 gallon nickel plating tank is ~$300, 1 gallon 24k gold plating tank is about $850.

It's probably something I'm doing wrong, but I've found the nickel plating process to be more of an art than a science. I'll pickle parts clean, rinse them in distilled water, clean the copper wire hangers for the tank, Scotchbrite the grounding bar across the top of the tank, etc. and have one part look beautiful and another have black streaks. I'll clean the bad part and run it again, comes out okay (mostly). It's probably a grounding issue from me not getting good contact.

Bruce
 
+1 on Caswell Plating kits. Here's a link to their website:


I've had very good luck with their nickel plating kit which I've had for 20 years. I've also had good luck with their Plug 'n Plate brass and nickel kits though I get more of an antique brass finish with that kit.

It is a "commitment"; 1 1/2 gallon nickel plating tank is ~$300, 1 gallon 24k gold plating tank is about $850.

It's probably something I'm doing wrong, but I've found the nickel plating process to be more of an art than a science. I'll pickle parts clean, rinse them in distilled water, clean the copper wire hangers for the tank, Scotchbrite the grounding bar across the top of the tank, etc. and have one part look beautiful and another have black streaks. I'll clean the bad part and run it again, comes out okay (mostly). It's probably a grounding issue from me not getting good contact.

Bruce
Depending on where the anode is you can get shadowing. Basically what’s facing the anode gets the bright nickel. I usually rotate the part mid bath.
 
Couldn’t one just take some gold and use electrolysis gold being the anode and plate with that. Of course not that easy but?
 
The cheapest way to plate gold is by starting with your own gold. For further plating, it is easily recovered. Dissolve it in nitric with some heat, and add to your electrolyte. You can use an iron cathode but you must use voltage control to stay in gold's range but out of iron's.

I would think a copper strike would give you the best starting surface on brass, which is cheap and easy with copper sulfate in an acid electrolyte. Nickel on top would probably give you the best gold coloring and finish while using the least amount of gold.
 
Thanks for the tips.

They do think highly of the stuff!

Other projects are in front of this for now, much more learning to do before we start.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
Depending on where the anode is you can get shadowing. Basically what’s facing the anode gets the bright nickel. I usually rotate the part mid bath.


I made a rotating part holder to eliminate shadowing out of a small e bay gear motor.

Worked good save for me overestimating the time and coming up with a crusty nugget vs a shiny part.

Really need to get back to that soon.
 
Back
Top