Ok, I give up. Hss bits for lathe, what and where?

From what I can tell from reading, M42 and T15 seem to compare pretty well. M42 is slightly harder, T15 is slightly tougher. Both are considerably tougher than standard M2, and take a lot longer to grind because of it. I have used both, but I haven't compared them "head to head"
 
Here is my input on the subject, M42 is cobalt steel and is excellent for all metals and superior to HSS. But the is better Nearly all my tools in the 1/4-5/16-3/8-1/2 inch are "REXALLOY aa or aaa" and it is superior to M42.
This is a proprietary metal that is cast, once in the crucible. I bought mine nearly 30 years ago and have not wore them out yet. I rough grind to shape and final grind on a white wheel then hone the top face. You can get them sharp as a razor and they hold the sharpness for a long time. I'm sure if you google rexalloy you can buy it directly from the manufacture which I did many years ago. I make a lot of mirror finish parts and this is the only material that will repeately give an outstanding finish. I think I heard one time that Rexalloy was discovered or developed during WWII. Get a piece and you can make chatter free threads.
 
I have had very good luck with Wholesale Tool head quartered in Detriot, Michigan. I think they also have a number of branches around the country.
I generally use the M2 type. They grind easy, are not expensive, and wear fairly well. They have a whole bunch of sizes etc.
The higher alloy bits ie M 4, T 15 etc are important when you are turning in a rapid fashion with heavy cuts in a production setting. For hobby use the garden variety M 2 works just fine for me.
Hope this helps.
 
How about Penn Tool. Here's their page on HSS and Cobalt tool bits.
 
Piggybacking a similar question on here -- where can I get 3/8" (10mm) cutoff blades ? I have one that came with my Tripan-Swiss holder, but have not found them anywhere else.

Tripan lists a replacement for some ridiculous price but hasn't even answered my e-mails asking about them.

The Tripan blade has a bevelled bottom edge and a V-groove in the top that's grabbed by the clamp; I think I can live without that.

Thanks... PeteH
 
Back
Top