Hi pertyfly,
coolidge certainly has a point about open pulleys, but that wouldn't stop me from buying that lathe, but I definitely would mount it very differently with the counter-shaft behind the lathe (not above).
The link that Micke S posted above is normally "the site" to go to to help identify a lathe........I went thru all the Pratt and Whitney pages and did NOT see this one......hmmm. Some differences I saw were the location of the large flat pulley on the headstock (right vs. left) and the tailstock body. Another indicator is the handles/knobs, but those can be changed easily. I'll do some more browsing around and let you know if I see something similar.
All the bits and pieces for a lathe can total a cost equal to the lathe. Since this one has some (three-jaw chuck, tailstock jabobs chuck, fixed steady, numerous collets) that should figure in to the price. I did not see a toolpost of any kind (lantern/rocker, turret, quick-change), consider that too.
If you haven't seen them here are a few good links for evaluating a lathe:
http://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/a-guide-for-selecting-the-right-lathe-for-beginners.25915/
http://www.mermac.com/advicenew.html
Specifically, try to evaluate the wear in the headstock bearings and ways(carriage, cross-slide and top-slide). Major slop means anything of precision is impossible to do. Of course some wear is inevitable, and some dovetail ways have adjustable jibs to account for some wear.
With no change-gear chart it is hard to know if that's is all of the gears or not. It is not rocket science to work out a feed and screw-cutting chart, you could print and laminate one to leave at the lathe.
Good Luck!
-brino