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Paint advice on an old lathe

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rambin

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#1
im slowly painting an old logan lathe, I just used rattle can (ace machinery gray) which is almost positively rustoleum worked out great for most of the lathe only issue I have is the carriage where hot chips land is getting some pits.... ive seen some clear coats in a spray can which say there for high heat and oil and gas resistance. was wondering if a coat of this would fix my problem? ya I know a good brush on paint would probably be better but who has the time. anyone try these clear coats? I was even thinking the high heat paint for engines but couldn't find machinery grey...most are orange or red it seems.
 

FOMOGO

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#2

T Bredehoft

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In my household, I spray a part, let it air dry overnight then bake it in the oven (same oven I use for baking cookies or ham,) for a couple of hours at 175º or 200º and turn the oven off and let it cool until room temperature. I don't know about heat resistance, but I can't nick it with a thumbnail. It can't hurt to try.
 

markba633csi

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#4
I use the sun to get the part really warm for a few hours then let cool. Usually hardens the paint pretty well, brush or spray
They sell hardeners you can add to enamel, if you really need a rock-hard finish- Valspar is one brand I think
ps Bredehoft must have strange tasting cookies
 
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Richard King 2

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I tell folks to go to Tractor Supply and buy Tractor engine paint
 

Silverbullet

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#6
Most good paint jobs are really done by your prep work. The engine paints all should work well for machines. If go with can paint with brush or air you can adjust the color and add hardeners to the mix. If you like the rattle can go for it your prep will show a good job .
 

Be_Zero_Be

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#7
I used Hammerite and brush painted my lathe.
Hammerite dries to a very hard finish.

Be_Zero_Be

IMG_0299.jpg
 

pontiac428

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#8
Hammerite, whether shot by rattlecan or by gun, has been permanently banned from my shop space for the heinous crime of chipping when looked at and flaking under the paws of kittens. I think if you wanted to strip a piece with Hammerite, you could just breathe on it until all the paint falls away.

Engine enamel, however, is lovely stuff. It has a lot of resin in it, is resistant to oil, and it *loves* being hit with the heat gun after spraying. Engine enamel cured on with a heat gun is great for your iron. Test it on something and see.
 

Be_Zero_Be

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#9
Pontiac428,
I have had good results with hamerite at home and at work.
If I really want a tough finish I use Por-15.
I used it on the frame and undercarriage on my Model T and it is tough.
In my opinion it is second only to powder coating.

Be_Zero_Be
 

rambin

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from what im reading high heat engine rattle can might be worth pursuing... hopefully I can match the ace machine grey ive done most of the lathe with. only the saddle/cross feed area where the hot chips are landing is getting chipped
 

Richard King 2

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#11
I had a student tell me about glass filled enamel he brushed on and it flowed out as if it was sprayed. I can't find it on the net. Maybe someone else knows? Or is that Hammerite paint?
 

pontiac428

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#12
I had a student tell me about glass filled enamel he brushed on and it flowed out as if it was sprayed. I can't find it on the net. Maybe someone else knows? Or is that Hammerite paint?
That's POR-15 paint. It is really nice stuff.

Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk
 

rambin

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#13
i guess the big question is has anyone ever seen a high heat engine rattle can in machine grey... best ive seen so far is a ford gray which I believe is darker? rest of the lathe is ace brand machine gray which Im sure rustoleum canned for ace. ive checked a few stores without luck, not a big selection in the engine paint.. I even looked at napa thinking they might have a bigger selection being in the automotive market
 

kd4gij

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#14
I like rustoleum hammered paint. Home depot will mix it to match for you.

1530814909433.png
 

T Bredehoft

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#15
POR-15 is really great stuff, (color selection is minimal, however, black and white is all I know about, maybe 'silver'.) It is not strictly speaking a paint. It goes on and covers like glass, but doesn't dry, it cures. It absorbs moisture from the air and gets hard. Really hard. It bonds to steel and iron, excluding moisture. Don't get it on clothing, nothing removes it but scissors. On skin it must wear off if not removed within (perhaps) 30 minutes. It will chip, I don't know what hot chips will do to it. I put it all over the underneath of my car (see avatar) but not where I was going to paint over. Another concern, once a can is opened figure on using it all, it may "go off" after you seal the can.
 

Be_Zero_Be

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#16
POR-15 makes a solvent that will remove paint from your hands etc.
I have found that if you put the reminder of a can into a glass jar with a tight lid it will keep for months.
Be very sure there is no paint on the jar rim or lid.
If there is, you will never get the lid off.
If it gets thick, the POR-15 solvent will thin it out again.
As i mentioned I used in on my Avatar (1916 Ford Model T) on the under carriage (front end, rear end, frame, etc.).
I even used it on my wood firewall and floorboards.
It adheres really well and wears like iron.

Be_Zero_Be
 
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NortonDommi

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#17
Hammerite has glass it in but they changed the formulae about 10 years ago to comply with EU laws and not as good as the old stuff.
POR15, like any can punch holes around the rim under where the lid seats to allow drips to drain. Use a doubled up piece on Glad-Wrap/cling film over the top under lid and keep in the fridge. Try not to use on a really humid day or when raining. keep covered as much as possible as being Hygroscopic it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere which sets it off.
 

rambin

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#18
I had a painter tell me how great that por15 was and I had him sandblast and paint my open trailer... ya it might be good but It was later explained to me the stuff has no sun protection..it faded and pretty much washes off the trailer after being left in the sun... the nice dark black is now a faded almost greyish looks like ****... I realize my lathe wont see the sun but that pretty much turned me off the stuff and thatw why its used for tractor frames and such... it cant take the sun!
 

NortonDommi

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#19
Hello Rambin,
If you read the spec sheet and/or the instructions on the can you will see that the POR 15 Primer has little UV protection which is why the manufacture states that it must be top-coated.
 
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