PAINT!!

My neighbor coats my bike frames and powder coat seems to be really thick and I could see issues with reasembly of the machine after coating although powder on the mill would look awsome

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I have done some powder coating in the past using both the Eastwood Hotcoat system and the HF system. They both work fine. Biggest problem is handling the un-cured powder coated parts. Small parts I did in an old electric kitchen oven (don't try a gas one and don't use the one in your kitchen!) and make sure it isn't a convection type - the air in the oven needs to be still to keep from disturbing the powder. The type of powder determines a lot of things - curing time, curing temp, UV resistance, chemical resistance, etc. Film thickness can be controlled just like painting - put on just enough and not too much (yep - it'll take a practice run or two - just like painting) Need a still place to coat close to the heat source and small parts are pretty easy. Larger parts can be done using in IR heater (no fans!) It is messy - the powder is very fine and respirator should be worn whenever handling it, let alone when spraying it. Water must be kept out of the system. Check out the Hotcoat site for all the details. Powders can be purchased off ebay as well as from HF and Eastwood. Pay attention to the powder type and make sure you use the one you need to get the type of end result you want - Most epoxy chalks really bad in UV for example. Polyester is pretty good in UV, but softer that epoxy, and a little less chemical resistant. Also, most powders must go over bare metal or special powder type undercoats - no filler under the powder coat. It's been a few years, so I'm sure some things have changed since I last played with it.
 
I use caliper or wheel paints on my restores. Holds up great to everything I find. I do a primer, a couple color coats and a couple clear coats over top.
 
High temp engine block paint is also pretty good at dealing with this stuff. I spray brake clean all over the engines I have with this stuff on it and they don't even notice.
 
I use true automotive single stage paints with the added hardener with an epoxy primer base coat. I just did a job for someone that wanted "battleship grey" so I got some industrial grey from Napa for a whopping $35 a gallon and added the same hardener and reducer in a 4:1:1 ratio just like the auto paints. Its hard as a rock and so far holding up the same. Its cure time was about 30 minutes so you could probably brush it on without leaving strokes.
 
nickmckinney said:
I use true automotive single stage paints with the added hardener with an epoxy primer base coat. I just did a job for someone that wanted "battleship grey" so I got some industrial grey from Napa for a whopping $35 a gallon and added the same hardener and reducer in a 4:1:1 ratio just like the auto paints. Its hard as a rock and so far holding up the same. Its cure time was about 30 minutes so you could probably brush it on without leaving strokes.
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I really like your paint tips. I've painted a lot of equipment with Rusroleum, with good results. The big challenge is my Cincinnati milling machine. Although I would love to polish and paint it, the oil being slung would stain the paint. After reading your post, I'll go ahead & try it in the future.
 
For rattle can stuff I've been using X-O Rust Professional paint and primer in one. Mostly in GLOSS Machinery Grey. Gloss paint wipes down much better than flat or semi-gloss.
The stuff coats very well but takes a rather long time to dry. You can handle it after 24 hours easily but I've noticed this paint keeps getting harder for a week or longer. When it seems fully cured it's some pretty tough stuff. Around here they sell it at L&M Fleet Supply, Menard's and a few other places.
 
Its hard to beat the durability of two part epoxy paint but unless your equipped to spray it there is a health risk. I only spray it outside or with the shop doors open and a good chemical filter mask, should be using a fresh air supplied full face helmet. It contains isocyonides (sp) really bad for your nervous system, they accumulate over time, unlike the dreaded lead that will exit your body over time.
Like Nick I use single stage automotive urethane, with the hardener it sets quite well and seams fairly oil resistant.
Heres a lathe I did a few months ago with it, I use sulphur based cutting oil that doesn't like to wipe off taps, and it hasn't stained it.
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Greg

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Don B said:
I've wondered how hard powder coating is to, and if there's a practical/affordable way for a person to do it in the home shop, I have a nephew who paints in his own shop, but I know he send all the powder coating stuff out, I guessed/assumed based on that it was impractical for the average person :thinking:
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I had a grizzly wood lathe that's powder coated. It's so thick it chips really easy. Not that dourable but for a home shop it's probably fine.
 
Powder coat does not chip because of thickness. Painting and powder coating is 95% prep and 5% paint, if it chips it was not prepped properly.
 
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