PEM nuts, or something like that for sheet metal

jwmelvin said:
Rivnuts have a flange so will prohibit contact with the surface.
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Yes, that is true. May have to find some cushioning thermal pad to fill the gap then.

There's always a press fit stud. It won't stick out much on the back. Then I'd use a nut and washer to hold the light part to the box. It would be flush, since there's no flange on that side. If it pulls out, could always use a rivnut.
 
jwmelvin said:
Buying a tool to set rivet nuts isn’t all that expensive if you may use them a few times. They can be handy. Like this: https://a.co/d/i2oRezG
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pretty sure that's the Astro Pneumatic I got. Works good. Riv nuts are one of those things you find tons of use for...
They're a fantastic solution to stripped threads in thin sheet metal or bar.
(ex: I used them on all the stripped threads for the belt guards/covers on my 3-point mower)

Otherwise, use a proper bolt, thread a nut on it to the head, add a flat washer or two to lower the spinning friction (grease maybe?)
Thread the bolt into the rivnut and hand tighten nut against rivnut.
Insert the rivnut into box.
Hold bolt with wrench and tighten nut. Rivnut smashed and installed!
 
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I ordered one of those 50$ rivnut kits on Amazon about 5 years ago, for a little job that only needed a few rivnuts.

Turns out, I had tons of other stuff that would need rivnuts over the next five years.

Just getting rid of the pain in the butt nut/bolt setup in my blasting cabinet made the purchase worth it.

I remember posting about that job, I think. Quick change thumbscrews makes it easy. Trying to reach around through the door and loosen nuts while holding the crew with a screwdriver was nearly impossible.


Post in thread 'Protecting lens of add-on LED lights in blast cabinet' https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...led-lights-in-blast-cabinet.91501/post-905205

Same thing on my lathe cabinet center sheet metal thing. Reaching around for the nuts was pretty bad.


Basically, I put rivnuts everywhere that I had ever struggled to get a wrench onto a nut.
 
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More work, but just a thought. If you need a thermal bridge you can cut an aluminum plate to put between the control and the box. doesn't need to be precise. Just a touch thicker than the compressed riv-nut.

Riv-nut flange is pretty thin. which way would you mount it? Thin flange on the inside? or thin flange on the outside (bigger standoff for the controller)
FYI: the thin side is the side it needs set from regardless of tool or bolt/nut
 
Mill Lee farm said:
More work, but just a thought. If you need a thermal bridge you can cut an aluminum plate to put between the control and the box. doesn't need to be precise. Just a touch thicker than the compressed riv-nut.

Riv-nut flange is pretty thin. which way would you mount it? Thin flange on the inside? or thin flange on the outside (bigger standoff for the controller)
FYI: the thin side is the side it needs set from regardless of tool or bolt/nut
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Was planning for thin flange on the inside. Other side of box (outside) has the part sticking out. Where the rivnut sticks out won't interfere with anything.

Still thinking about press studs though. Same idea, just pressed in with an arbor press from the outside in. Then I use a nut to hold the driver to the box. Might get some of those studs, for the heck of it. If not for this task, maybe another.
 
Ken226 said:
I ordered one of those 50$ rivnut kits on Amazon about 5 years ago, for a little job that only needed a few rivnuts.

Turns out, I had tons of other stuff that would need rivnuts over the next five years.

Just getting rid of the pain in the butt nut/bolt setup in my blasting cabinet made the purchase worth it.

I remember posting about that job, I think. Quick change thumbscrews makes it easy. Trying to reach around through the door and loosen nuts while holding the crew with a screwdriver was nearly impossible.


Post in thread 'Protecting lens of add-on LED lights in blast cabinet' https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...led-lights-in-blast-cabinet.91501/post-905205

Same thing on my lathe cabinet center sheet metal thing. Reaching around for the nuts was pretty bad.

It got rivnuts too:



Basically, I put rivnuts everywhere that I had ever struggled to get a wrench onto a nut.
Click to expand...
I can see how they'd be very handy. Warming up to the idea! Balking at the price, but I will look around to see if I can find it for a little less.
 
Another voice heard for the riv-nuts. Have used then on several jobs, and I'm sure on many more. Pretty much a must have for automotive applications/restorations. I have the tool with longer handles than the one shown above, and I believe it goes up to 3/8". It was fairly reasonable at the time as I recall. Mike
 
I have worked with (but never installed) the press in inserts (nuts and studs) on lots of DoD stuff and they work well.
My fear is for the tolerance needed for a secure fit. Riv-nuts are fairly tolerant of an oversize hole. Not sure about the press in.

However! Being a hobby MACHINIST member... I have faith you can produce the proper size hole!

But yes, get yourself a bag of rivnuts to play with! (bolt/washer/nut for now) I think you'll like them :p

Another really fun insert I've used is for wood! I used these to hang frequently removed/reinstalled stuff on the wall

 
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Mine is one of these.

Amjoy Rivet Nut Tool 16'' Long Handles, Labor-Saving Rivet Tool Set with 8 Mandrels(Metric and SAE), Easy to Use Rivnut Tool Kit Comes with 80Pcs Threaded Rivet Nuts, Durable Riveter Nutsert Hand Tool https://a.co/d/gf0FFnR


Honestly, if I'd have known how much I was going to use it I would have spent more for a better one.
 
To everyone, I did get the message! Ended up buying a Rivet Nut tool, plus a pile of extra rivnuts. May still play with some press fit studs, just because, sometimes you don't feel like a nut.:grin:
 
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