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  • As some of you know, I have wanted to stop managing H-M for some time. It's a tremendous strain on my personal life. I want to set up my own shop. In September, September 15, to be exact, it will be 8 years that Hobby-Machinist has been in existence.

    I have been training VTCNC to run things here. Dabbler is going to learn too. I feel that they are ready to start taking over the operation. I will be here to help in case they need, but I don't think they will. Tony Wells is and will be here also to consult with. I will be doing backups, upgrades, and installing addons. Other than that, I will not be around. I am leaving this place in good operating condition, and financial condition.
    --Nelson
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PM 1030V has landed!

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NavyShooter

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#1
I got the call this morning from UPS (or rather, the local delivery office for them that does the freight deliveries) and they said the truck would be here tomorrow.

Turns out it showed up today instead! I'm honestly OK with that!

Here it is, coming off the truck and the guy's pallet jack which got stuck in the gravel...I offered to put down some plywood, but he indicated that he didn't need it. So, it got stuck in the gravel, I had to prop it up with a couple of chunks of wood to get his pallet jack out from underneath, and then he buggered off after I signed my life away.

This is $4200 in some small looking boxes.

20180227_145208_resized_1.jpg

Got things re-arranged, hand-bombed the base into the garage, and then hoisted this big box into the garage. Brought the lawn tractor/snow-blower back in, and then started unpacking a bit.

20180227_152204_resized_1.jpg

Yup. Looks like a lathe to me. Looks like there's no damage from shipping either, which is a good thing. There were a couple of scratch marks on one of the base cabinets, so it looks like it got a little bit dinged up, but the door opens smoothly, and it's only a bit of paint. not a big deal - it'll be hidden once the chip tray goes on anyhow. I got my middle minion to help me with this as well.

20180227_160613_resized.jpg

Here we go with the crate off, things unpacked and having a look at things. I am quite pleased with what I see. I packed it in early tonight...I'm going to be up early for work in the morning, but my garage has officially gotten busy again.

20180227_161119_resized.jpg
 

BFHammer

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#2
Those look like great lathes and the variable speed is nice.

I talked myself up to the PM1236 which I love but I can say 90% of the stuff I do would work within the 1030V envelope.

Enjoy and be sure keep sharing the pics!
 

tweinke

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#3
Congratulations on your new lathe! Please do keep us up on your progress. :eagerness:
 

Hruul

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#4
Congratulations on the new lathe!! I am also looking at getting the same one. I live within 2 hours of the U.S./Canada Border and my Dad goes across the border all the time (has a mailbox there). I was wondering what the brokerage and shipping cost to get this to your house? I am wondering if it is worth the extra time and effort to have it shipped to a location in the U.S. (local town hardware store in the U.S. lets people use there address as a shipping location for package to large for P.O. boxes) and bring it back across myself. Thanks in advance. Sorry i just found were you posted the experience and costs in another location. Please ignore this request.
 
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NavyShooter

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#5
Hruul,

Here's the blurb about importation costs:

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/canadian-importation-not-too-painful.67180/

Summary - a bit of work by myself, and I spent just over $4200 (Canadian Dollars) to my door.

I did the customs clearance myself, and this was actually fairly straight forward. No extra duties, just the taxes, paid at the rate of exchange for the day that I bought the lathe. Had to pay $50 for the bonded warehouse storage/transshipment.
 
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NavyShooter

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#6
Current condition - Lathe has been taken off the stand and I'm busy drilling holes in concrete to install lag bolts into the ground.

I should have the lathe re-mounted at some point over the weekend.

Next steps:
-buy new masonry bit in the morning
-Drill holes for anchors
-install anchors and epoxy into place
-tape base area off and paint w/concrete paint to seal floor
-install base
-install chip tray
-install lathe
-level lathe
-make chips
 

NavyShooter

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#7
OK, so here's some process photos...

Here's what the lathe looks like in situ....I set it on the stand just for fit/sizing/positioning to make sure it'd clear the attic hatch/ladder.

20180228_222915_resized.jpg
Based on this...yes it does.

20180303_151603_resized.jpg

This is a key element for this location. I was originally going to have a work bench here, but due to the attic hatch/ladder, I had to move that. A lathe with a depth of 22" will fit...perfectly.

20180227_162727_resized_1.jpg

Anyone have any idea what this little tiny threaded (almost like a grub screw) is for? It was loose in the crate, and I cannot see where it was supposed to go into.
 

NavyShooter

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#8
So, after the test-fit, I tore it all apart and cleaned the shipping/packing/preserving goo off.

Here's a peek at the guts of it:

20180228_211227_resized.jpg

20180228_205304_resized.jpg

20180228_211239_resized.jpg
 

NavyShooter

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#9
Once it was tidied up and oiled, I took it all apart again (thank goodness for the engine hoist!) and then started doing the mounting anchors.

First plotting the holes:
20180302_201919_resized.jpg

Then some drilling:
20180303_141457_resized.jpg
Then going out to buy a new bit because I killed the cheapie ones from my drill set. (Ryobi...got a Milwaukee to replace it...NICE!)

20180303_141630_resized.jpg

This one is specifically designed for drilling anchor holes! Perfect!
 

NavyShooter

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#10
Then I realized that I never properly bolted my mill into place with anchors, so I decided to put them in for it. Part of this was the cost of the Sika anchor epoxy - $21 a tube. YIKES. If I'm going to blow that money, I might as well blow it once, not twice.

So....I moved the mill out of the way (RF-31 type B096 from Busy Bee...got it cheap a few years ago.) Then I drilled 4 more holes, and cut four more anchor bolts.

Here's the Sika anchor cement/epoxy kit.
20180303_163552_resized.jpg

I got a couple of my minions to help tidying up and vacuuming:

20180303_163542_resized.jpg

20180303_141954_resized.jpg
 

NavyShooter

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#11
Then I put the anchors in. I cleaned out the holes the best I could but as I squirted in the epoxy, it came out the top with some dust. So, I cleaned that off and stuck the anchors in.
20180303_164342_resized.jpg

20180303_164354_resized.jpg
 

NavyShooter

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#12
Went out to my son's Hockey game (they won! 4-1! PeeWee division!)

That gave the anchors time to set and the epoxy time to harden. With that hardened, I laid on the first layer of the epoxy paint I got to seal the area under the bases of the machines.

First Coat:
20180303_213107_resized.jpg
20180303_213112_resized.jpg
 

NavyShooter

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#13
I'll do a third coat in the morning and then I'll be mounting machines up.
Second Coat:
20180303_214748_resized.jpg
20180303_214757_resized.jpg

Once the third coat goes on in the morning (after the boy's 0815 hockey practice!) I will be able to mount up the lathe. Life is good! I should be able to make chips tomorrow!
 

NavyShooter

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#14
I will note, this youtube video was rather informative WRT the above few steps:

 

NavyShooter

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#15
OK, we've got a lathe!

Here's the last layer, with the tape removed.

20180304_171619_resized.jpg

And here's the first test cut!

20180304_182112_resized.jpg
 

NavyShooter

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#16
Now, the only real 'hiccup' that I can see so far is the threading dial.

It's at an odd angle. I've been in touch with Matt, and we're trying to figure out what to do. I think the hole is drilled at an angle.

Have a look:

Top down view of the dial:
20180304_175741_resized_1.jpg

The bolt is straight:

20180304_180041_resized_1.jpg

The mounting hole seems mis-aligned though...

Thoughts?

20180304_180015_resized_1.jpg
 

NavyShooter

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#17
Oh, the issue with this is that due to this angle/position, the dial catches and 'clicks' every time the leadscrew slot hits.
 

GinStC

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#18
Doesn't look like an easy fix. Worst (or best?) case is a new apron. Would have to disassemble to fill hole and re-drill/tap it anyway.
 

DHarris

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#19
Couldn't you make a bracket to mount to the side of the lathe and then the dial to the bracket? Is there enough room / angle / access?
 

MSD0

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#20
Maybe you could drill it oversized and press in a threaded insert or something.
 

Bob Korves

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#21
Let Matt fix it for you. That is not a simple and minor mistake, it is very poor work and shows even poorer quality control. It needs to be made right with an apology. Matt tries really hard to deliver quality machines at good prices, see how he wants to handle it. Hopefully, whoever drilled and tapped that thread and whoever let it pass quality control inspection at the factory are looking for new jobs.
 

rwm

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#22
I would think if you were the guy inspecting these machines on a daily basis that would scream out at you...
Let us know how you make out with PM.
Robert
 

NavyShooter

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#23
Matt and I are discussing.

I'll let you guys know how it works out.

Of note, I discovered that the Engine Hoist is also capable of lifting my RF-31 copy (Busy Bee B096) Mill on its stand. That's now in place.

The shop is becoming more...shop-like!
 

NavyShooter

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#24
Ok,

Blew two fuses tonight...I tried parting off some round sections of rod to put under the corners of the stand to act as feet, and the lathe bogged down and popped a fuse, then another a couple of minutes later.

Hrm.
 

wrmiller

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#25
How large a diameter rod?
 

Kiwi Canuck

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#26

NavyShooter

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#27
I pulled up the tech manual from the PM website, and the fuses in the wiring diagram are both 15A.

Two of the 3 fuses I have in my collection of blown/damaged (one was broken in the spares box, - the other two blew on me) are 10A.

I picked up a pack of 15A yesterday, and they're now installed and running again. Alas, big storm last night up here (mostly rain though, not so much snow) so I didn't spend my time in the shop last night.

NS
 

NavyShooter

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#28
OK,

So last evening, I got moving on leveling the lathe. Something that I'd noted was that even bolted to the floor, the lathe still had movement front to rear. In looking at the base of the cabinets, I can see why. The mounting bolts are in the center of an open span of metal with no structural support. So, solution was to get some 1/4" aluminium, cut four 9- 3/4" lengths of flat bar (1"x0.25"x9.75") and then loosen the mounting bolts, lift the lathe stand, and slip one bar under the front and rear of each side of the lathe stands. Then I tightened the bolts down again, so there's some tension holding the lathe down now.

Good.

It no longer rocks front/rear anymore. (I'd say that before doing this, I had at least a 1/2" of travel pushing the lathe towards the wall and away from the wall.)

With that done, I can now action the process of leveling it.

A quick check with a precision level showed that the front side of the lathe needs to come up, and when I put some brass shims in, it looks like it's more than .015" out of level...so I'm going to get some more shimstock, and then see what I can do with it to get things level-er.

I never leveled my old lathe...even at the old house where I had it really running and setup. This one, it's going to get done right.

So - question about shimming. Should I place the shims under the base of the lathe stand, or under the lathe itself (between the lathe and the chip-tray?)

Thanks!

NS
 

navav2002

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#29
I'm not really an expert but I would add shims under the base of the lathe stand to level the machine..

I would only shim between the lathe and chip tray to correct a twist in the bed or something like that..
 

MSD0

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#30
OK,

So last evening, I got moving on leveling the lathe. Something that I'd noted was that even bolted to the floor, the lathe still had movement front to rear. In looking at the base of the cabinets, I can see why. The mounting bolts are in the center of an open span of metal with no structural support. So, solution was to get some 1/4" aluminium, cut four 9- 3/4" lengths of flat bar (1"x0.25"x9.75") and then loosen the mounting bolts, lift the lathe stand, and slip one bar under the front and rear of each side of the lathe stands. Then I tightened the bolts down again, so there's some tension holding the lathe down now.

Good.

It no longer rocks front/rear anymore. (I'd say that before doing this, I had at least a 1/2" of travel pushing the lathe towards the wall and away from the wall.)

With that done, I can now action the process of leveling it.

A quick check with a precision level showed that the front side of the lathe needs to come up, and when I put some brass shims in, it looks like it's more than .015" out of level...so I'm going to get some more shimstock, and then see what I can do with it to get things level-er.

I never leveled my old lathe...even at the old house where I had it really running and setup. This one, it's going to get done right.

So - question about shimming. Should I place the shims under the base of the lathe stand, or under the lathe itself (between the lathe and the chip-tray?)

Thanks!

NS
I used slotted shims between the lathe and chip tray on my PM-1127. Don’t worry about getting it perfectly level. As long as it’s within the range of your level is fine since your goal is removing twist.
 
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