Pm 1228-vf-lb Lathe Preparations

[Franko]

Thanks, MSDO.
Hey, it is a new shop and a new lathe. Hasn't had time to get messy yet.
Actually, I sweep it every day to keep from tracking chips and grindings in the house. I just built the shop last fall, so it is still new and shiny to me.
All the tools used to be in my garage with the table saw and wood working tools, so they were always covered in sawdust.

TCB, Those holes have screws in them from the inside. Something's probably screwed on from the inside and the threaded holes were drilled through.

I started out with the platform 20" wide. It didn't need to be that wide, so I unscrewed it an cut it down to 16". That way I can stand it up and stick it out of the way in a smaller corner when I'm not using the lathe.

 

[wrmiller]

Franko,

I too had to 'trim' my tailstock arbors, for both of my lathes. BTW I have the same South Bend drill chuck and have been very happy with mine. I have several SB pieces for the small lathe and while a little spendy, they are a better quality piece IMO.

My small lathe sits on a 40" tool box lower and sits at an ideal height for my 6'3" frame. I wish my 1340 sat as high because if I spend too much time on it my lower back starts to get grumpy. We ain't getting any younger...*sigh*

 

[Franko]

Bill, the drill chuck seems pretty solid. It does have a little hitch in middle of travel. I'm hoping that will smooth out with use.

I have mixed feelings about the height of my lathe. Visibility is great up high as it is. But, it means I have to stand up the any time it is running. I was able to sit on a tall stool with other one during long repetitive cuts.

 

[Franko]

More minor things to make the shop more convenient.

I made a trip to AceMart restaurant supply and picked up some SS baking pans. It is handy to have shallow pans to keep parts organized during projects.

I got a couple of bigger pans to put in the chip pan under where the cutting is happening to make cleaning them out easier.
The first photo also shows my new Shars piston QCTP that replaces the wedge type I didn't like. It was hinky inserting and removing the tool holders. The new Shars piston is smooth as butter.

I'm thinking of making a shield that will attach to the saddle and hang out 6 or 8 inches over the ways to shield them from swarf. Probably attach it with magnets.

The two deeper pans are for parts cleaning. Just pour in a little odorless mineral spirits and use a chip brush.

 

[Franko]

This isn't part of the lathe preparations, but it is a project I'm starting. I plan to make some knurled knobs to replace the t-handles on a few of my C-clamps. This is my first serious try at knurling. Well, not too serious. I didn't trim the tube to the recommended diameter. I just squashed the knurler in and trimmed around the edges.

It was with my coarse 16 lpi knurler. It is just a double wheel and doesn't pivot. Setting the height was finicky.

The stock is pretty beat up but ok for a test run. It was also a test to see how smooth I could cut.

 

[Franko]

This is the first actual project on the PM1228. I made a couple knobs for c-clamps. It is first actual knurling project.
The knurls got better with each one. The first couple turned a little counter-clockwise and weren't cutting on the left side. I adjusted and tried to re-cut them, but they're kinda sloppy. The third one, I had learned that I needed to turn the tool post about a degree to the right and from there they got better.

The pin is 1/4" stainless pressed in. Thought I'd have to glue them, but they're stuck in pretty good.

 

[Franko]

I stamped some numbers on my chuck.
I don't know why chucks don't come stamped with numbers.

The numbers on the jaws are almost invisible and unreadable. I need to figure a way to mark the chuck jaws with something I can see. Anyone ever acid etched an image on steel?

 

[brav65]

Looking good Franko!

 

[ronboult]

Frank what sort of knurling tool are you using. Is it a scissor type that squeezes the material or is it one that is pressed against the side of the shaft?

Are your chuck jaws so hard that if you remove them you still can't use a number punch on them. Alternatively there are electric engraving tools that will mark hard materials such as glass etc. I think they have carbide tips
Ron

 

[Franko]

Oh, yes, Ron. The chuck jaws are hard as woodpecker lips. I have a buzzer engraver with a carbide tip. I tried one tap with my dies, and got nothing. I'm not even sure the engraving buzzer will make much of a mark.

I'm looking at several electro-etching options online. I've seen a couple that use a battery charger, vinegar and salt or water and salt. Using a vinyl tape stencil, hook positive on the work piece and dab a swab wetted with the solution hooked to the negative. I'd like to etch the numbers on the outside ends of the jaws.

If I don't go to all that trouble, I could just use a diamond wheel on a Dremel and make 1, 2, and 3 lines on the ends.

The outside chuck jaws are fine, numbered clear as you please.

My knurler is the one that came with my QCTP. It is a two wheel pivot. The wheels and pivot axles are loose so the wheels rotate so the right side digs in and leaves the left side light or not even touched. I have to turn the tool to the right about a degree plus to get even pressure across the width of the tool.

I'm sure that somewhere I own a scissor type knurler. But, durned if I know where it is. Cranking so hard to press in the knurls, I have to watch my QCTP, or it will rotate under the pressure.

I cut a couple more knobs for a couple smaller c-clamp knobs. Using Kentucky windage they came out pretty near perfect.

I'm into c-clamp improvements so I tried another Idea I had last night. I made a couple knobs with long coupling nuts bored out to fit the clamp screw. The coupling nuts were around and old and corroded. I cleaned them half heartedly with a bench grinder brush but they are still a bit stained.

The coupling nuts give good purchase to hand tighten and the option of using a socket on a power screwdriver to run them up or open them fast. A vast improvement in c-clampology. Or, using socket drive handle they can be hand tightened almost too tight.

The coupling nuts aren't as arty, but I think they are a good idea and a 4th the effort.