PM-833TV power switch...

There's also these that can be wired right into the machine control box...............not sure how robust they are.
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parshal said:
I wired a 240v wall switch before my outlet and use that to turn it on/off.
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What gauge wire do you have running to your switch? My 30 amp circuit to my mill has 10 gauge wire. Wondering if a 240v wall switch will accommodate 10 gauge copper?
 
I honestly don’t remember but I do believe I ran 10 since I had to run it a decent distance.
 
Tipton1965 said:
There's also these that can be wired right into the machine control box...............not sure how robust they are. View attachment 364502
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Those above switches are rated for 30Amp 250Volt so should be stought enough for such a load. An enclosure would be necessary and the stabs are nominal, but is perfectly satisfactory. You refer to switching the breaker on/off as "hillbillyish". It's much more derogatory than that, a circuit breaker degrades slightly every time it is cycled. It is NOT a good practice to do so.

A 2 pole switch for household use is available that is rated at 20 Amps. It is NOT recommended for "inductive" loads but would be better than cycling the circuit breaker. On a 120 Volt circuit, the 2 pole is not really needed, but having it in place for later transition to 240Volts would be worth the extra buck or two cost.

A 30Amp fusable switch would be a little overkill for a home shop. If any switch is truely rated for 30Amps, it should accept AWG10 wire. The stabs on the illustrated switches look to be 1/4 inch quick disconnect. The proper female part should be properly installed, not just closed with pliers.

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Why are you running a 30 amp circuit? The mill needs 9 amps at full load. Theoretically you could get by with 14 gauge. I ran 12 to mine.
 
Bi11Hudson said:
. If any switch is truly rated for 30Amps, it should accept AWG10 wire. The stabs on the illustrated switches look to be 1/4 inch quick disconnect. The proper female part should be properly installed, not just closed with pliers.
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When you say not just closed with pliers are you talking about soldering as well? As far as a 30 amp wall switch......this is the one I was looking at.

Leviton 3032-PLR 30 Amp, 120 Volt, Toggle Pilot Light, Illuminated On, Double-Pole AC Quiet Switch, Extra Heavy Duty Grade, Self Grounding, Back and Side Wired, Red - Wall Light Switches - Amazon.com

Leviton 3032-PLR 30 Amp, 120 Volt, Toggle Pilot Light, Illuminated On, Double-Pole AC Quiet Switch, Extra Heavy Duty Grade, Self Grounding, Back and Side Wired, Red - Wall Light Switches - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
61xLqGbE8PL._AC_SL1000_.jpg
 
I would put spade connector on the end of the wire, crimp it an be done.
I will wait for the crimp vs solder debate to begin....
 
in high heat situations, a solder joint may fail.
under the same circumstances, a crimped joint will not fail
 
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