PM1340GT Lubrication Manifold for Quick Change Gearbox

This is experimental as I did not like grease- it was more messy.
I use grease on my change gears and really don't like to change gears because of it. Total mess. My quick change gears run in an oil bath and it leaks a little bit.
 
I use grease on my change gears and really don't like to change gears because of it. Total mess. My quick change gears run in an oil bath and it leaks a little bit.
I totally agree on the mess with the grease. My quick change gearbox is an oil-drip system. I see no difference between that and the gears in the back of the lathe. I ran the lathe with the back cover removed and squirted some gear oil on these gears and I like how quiet they immediately became. It won't be hard to make a guard for the belt should the splatter become excessive, but I will take oil over grease any day.
 
Looks great. I need to do something like that to my 13x40.
 
I just received this today! Not sure when I'll get to it, but it is on the list.
1613238113294381013076991895626.jpg
 
I just received this today! Not sure when I'll get to it, but it is on the list.
View attachment 355345
Look great- seems they've changed the fittings on the output. Mine broke when I tightened it and they are made of steel. These are made of brass, it seems. I made the replacements out of brass. Good luck- I really like this addition to my lathe.
 
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Look great- seems they've changed the fittings on the output. Mine broke when I tightened and they are made of steel. These are made of brass, it seems. I made the replacements out of brass. Good luck- I really like this addition to my lathe.
I'm sure that it is so much more convenient. When I get this done, I will only have to lube the carriage and the ways.
Thanks for the great thread!
 
Also, less time oiling and more time turning is an obvious benefit, but one thing that I didn't think about until now, is that everytime that you lift an oil cap, you risk a chip or other debris getting in there. This would no longer be a concern with a closed system.
 
Also, less time oiling and more time turning is an obvious benefit, but one thing that I didn't think about until now, is that everytime that you lift an oil cap, you risk a chip or other debris getting in there. This would no longer be a concern with a closed system.
When you're ready to put this together, let me know. I can post a list of components I used. I purchased all that I needed from McMASTER-CARR. I may even get around to making a sketch as to what goes where with thread sizes. You may find that the thread size on the fitting out of the one-shot oiler is 1/8"-NPT (should check), but the rest of the fittings are metric (that came with the oiler and I did not use). Here's a list of some dimensions of the fittings that came with my oiler- so that you can cross check with yours:

1. M8-1.0 compression fittings
2. Compression Sleeves: ID=4.0 mm
3. Needs copper tubing of 4.0 approximately 5/32" or polyurethane tubing.
4. Tapered NPT threads into the one-shot oiler body is: 1/8"-27(TPI) thread.

The 1/8"-NPT length on the output port was too short on mine. This is the reason I wanted to take it out and drill-tap to have a longer thread. It broke as it was made out cheap alloy and there was a weak point where it necked down. It became weaker when I drilled it and it broke. I have modified the design on the replacement brass fitting so that it extends away from the oiler body allowing the installation of the flow control valve. I do have a SolidWorks model for the replacement fitting if you need it.

Salah
 
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While I am at it, here is a list of the hardware that went into this build (I hope I am not missing anything):

1. High-Pressure Precision Flow-Adjustment Valve Metal-to-Metal Seat, Brass Body, 1/8 NPT Male x Female. McMaster # 7833K73
2.
Brass Threaded Check Valve for Oil and Fuel, 1/8 NPT Male x NPT Female. McMaster # 7768K65
3. High-Pressure Brass Pipe Fitting 90 Degree Elbow Adapter, 1/8 NPT Female x Male. McMaster # 50785K41
4. High-Pressure Brass Pipe Fitting Right-Angle Tee Adapter, 1/8 NPT Female x Male. McMaster # 50785K219
5. Universal-Thread Push-to-Connect Tube Fittings Nickel-Plated Brass, Straight, 5/32" OD x 1/8 Pipe Size. McMaster # 7397N15
6. Universal-Thread Push-to-Connect Tube Fittings Nickel-Plated Brass, Short 90 Degree, 5/32" OD x 1/8 Pipe Size. McMaster # 7397N45
7. Universal-Thread Push-to-Connect Tube Fittings Nickel-Plated Brass, Short 90 Degree, 3/8" OD x 1/8 Pipe Size. McMaster # 7397N55
8. Universal-Thread Push-to-Connect Tube Fittings Nickel-Plated Brass, Straight, 3/8" OD x 1/8 Pipe Size. McMaster # 7397N25
9. 3/8" OD - 1/4" ID Polyurethane flexible tubing from HomeDepot.
10. Threaded Brass Pipe Fitting for Drinking Water High-Pressure, Plug with Hex Drive, 1/8 NPTF Male. McMaster # 1491N186 (I bought mine from Princess Auto in Canada, but this will work).
11. Search on Amazon for the tubing- use this for the search ... uxcell Pneumatic Air Tubing, 4mm OD x 2.5mm ID.

I did have to buy a 1/8" NPT tap (needs size Q drill) as I did not own one as well as 1/4" drill - 8" length to drill the 3/4" brass 1/4" through hole. I drilled from both sides. I did not really need the aircraft drill of 12" that I've shown in one the clips above.

Hope this gets you going. I do have drawings and SolidWorks models for the critical components used in this build.

Salah
 
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When you're ready to put this together, let me know. I can post a list of components I used. I purchased all that I needed from McMASTER-CARR. I may even get around to making a sketch as to what goes where with thread sizes. You may find that the thread size on the fitting out of the one-shot oiler is 1/8"-NPT (should check), but the rest of the fittings are metric (that came with the oiler and I did not use). Here's a list of some dimensions of the fittings that came with my oiler- so that you can cross check with yours:

1. M8-1.0 compression fittings
2. Compression Sleeves: ID=4.0 mm
3. Needs copper tubing of 4.0 approximately 5/32" or polyurethane tubing.
4. Tapered NPT threads into the one-shot oiler body is: 1/8"-27(TPI) thread.

The 1/8"-NPT length on the output port was too short on mine. This is the reason I wanted to take it out and drill-tap to have a longer thread. It broke as it was made out cheap alloy and there was a weak point where it necked down. It became weaker when I drilled it and it broke. I have modified the design on the replacement brass fitting so that it extends away from the oiler body allowing the installation of the flow control valve. I do have a SolidWorks model for the replacement fitting if you need it.
I am replying to my own post to clarify that a standard manual one-shot oiler thread output is 5/16"-24 UNF. The oiler I'm using from KBC tools happens to have 1/8"-27 NPT thread on its output. This is why you should check as there maybe changes between models that I am not aware of. If so, you will have to get an adapter from 5/16"-24 to 1/8"-27 NPT if you want to go with the components I am listing- just a quick "heads-up". I found this at McMaster-CARR- Item # 51205K546

Extreme-Pressure 316 Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting
Adapter, 1/8 NPTF Female x 5/16"-24 UN/UNF Male

but it is very expensive. You could make your own ...

Salah
 
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