A while ago I posted with questions about the PM-25MV mill and received some good answers. I've scratched around the internet etc. and found no real haters of them but was worried about room in the z axis. which bumps me up to the 727. now this mill is technically out of my budget but lets just say one of my children who is grown and out of the house decided to finance the mill for me. The question I have is does a drill chuck come with it? What is in the tool box supplied? I know I need R8 collets or end mill holders, are Matts collets good?
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Pm727m Questions
- Thread starter tweinke
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2012
- Messages
- 33
I just received my PM727M last week. It does come with a drill chuck and a R8 shank for the chuck. It also comes with a couple of wrenches and an oiler. I bought my vise ans collets elsewhere. I found my collets wouldn't immediately fit the the spindle. There is a set screw in the spindle that locates the slot on the R8 collet. I had to back that screw off slightly and then my collets fit fine. All in all, I am impressed with the mill. My only concern thus far is the height of the stand. I'll probably raise the mill a few inches to suit myself.
How tall are you? I will measure mine when I get home, but I seem to remember making the stand approx. 33" tall when I welded up my new stand / base.
Where did you order your collets from? I would imagine that Matt's collets are imported like most everyone's. I started with a mini mill and had ordered a tooling package from LittleMachineShop.com that included a vise, collets, 1-2-3 blocks, etc. I know there were imports, but they have served me well over the last couple of years.
Where did you order your collets from? I would imagine that Matt's collets are imported like most everyone's. I started with a mini mill and had ordered a tooling package from LittleMachineShop.com that included a vise, collets, 1-2-3 blocks, etc. I know there were imports, but they have served me well over the last couple of years.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2016
- Messages
- 53
I got my PM727M from Matt little over a week ago. Unfortunately, it's still sitting on the pallet in the garage as I have no time to unpack it and move it to the basement to set it up.
I did order starter kit from Matt as well. The vise and clamp set looks pretty decent. The collet set ended up all the way at the bottom of the crate, so I haven't been able to get to it yet. I figure this setup should keep me going for some time.
I got a stand with my mill, figured it's faster and no more expensive than making my own, and should be more or less correct height right off the bat, instead of trying to guess. I'm only 5' 6", so from what I read, the stand should be pretty close to correct height for me. Maybe need to raise it up an inch.
I did order starter kit from Matt as well. The vise and clamp set looks pretty decent. The collet set ended up all the way at the bottom of the crate, so I haven't been able to get to it yet. I figure this setup should keep me going for some time.
I got a stand with my mill, figured it's faster and no more expensive than making my own, and should be more or less correct height right off the bat, instead of trying to guess. I'm only 5' 6", so from what I read, the stand should be pretty close to correct height for me. Maybe need to raise it up an inch.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2016
- Messages
- 53
How does one determine a proper height for the machine?
I mean, on a regular knee mill even table height is not fixed.
I mean, on a regular knee mill even table height is not fixed.
quiteman, you question is a good one. With a bench type mill, I along with many others base the height of the machine on whether or not you have to bend over to use it. I raised mine approx 5" to allow me to keep my back straight, which makes it much more comfortable to use. Also, this puts my arms in a natural position for using the cranks. For me, the handles are now just a bit below my elbows, which makes it very comfortable to use them. With a knee mill, the x-axis is controlled by the table movement. This definitely does make it harder on a person's back.
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2016
- Messages
- 53
3dshooter80, the answer of "so you don't have to bend over" is very ambiguous. It is possible to raise the table too high so you don't have to bend over, but now you can't see the top of your work either.
However, your other suggestion is spot on. I did some online research after I asked the question and the general consensus is for the handles and table top to be around the same height as the bent elbow. For me that is about 38"-39". According to the PM727M manual, the table height over floor with the stand is 36". So it looks like I will need to raise it up about 2"
I don't have welding capability yet. Wonder if a 2x4 frame will be strong enough.
However, your other suggestion is spot on. I did some online research after I asked the question and the general consensus is for the handles and table top to be around the same height as the bent elbow. For me that is about 38"-39". According to the PM727M manual, the table height over floor with the stand is 36". So it looks like I will need to raise it up about 2"
I don't have welding capability yet. Wonder if a 2x4 frame will be strong enough.