PM940 home made tramming tool

If you are going to go buy something, find a/the lifting strap Harbor Freight Link. 6' long, 2k# lift rating.

If you have no other choice, then, again, AT YOUR OWN RISK, a ratchet strap that is 1.5" wide, and a minimum of 3k# rating. The nylon webing has to be thick.

I have seen and own crap ratchet straps that are 1/16ish thick. Junk strap, junk ratchet, used as sacrificial straps and non critical.

Don't go overkill with a 3" strap, you likely won't get the hooks through the chain on the hoist, that is where they have to hook up, not to each other, no knots, not on the hoist hook, and not to the hoist tube. The strap hooks have to hook onto the chain links fully,

Again, an actual lifting strap should be your goal. If you are even remotely unsure of using the ratchet, then don't. Not worth the risk to you or your machine. Get a lifting sling.
 
pull the slack through the ratchet; leaving about 3" of slack, then ratchet up the slack until it's tight ish and centered... You will want at least 2.5 wraps of strap around the ratchet drum (6 layers).
So many people can't or won't grasp the fact that friction is the only thing holding the strap tight!
 
So many people can't or won't grasp the fact that friction is the only thing holding the strap tight!
Ergo failed misuse of the ratchet strap for lifting...along with poor choice of where to put the hooks,

Just like a wire rope winch. Minimum of 5 wraps around the winch drum.
 
If you are going to go buy something, find a/the lifting strap Harbor Freight Link. 6' long, 2k# lift rating.

If you have no other choice, then, again, AT YOUR OWN RISK, a ratchet strap that is 1.5" wide, and a minimum of 3k# rating. The nylon webing has to be thick.

I have seen and own crap ratchet straps that are 1/16ish thick. Junk strap, junk ratchet, used as sacrificial straps and non critical.

Don't go overkill with a 3" strap, you likely won't get the hooks through the chain on the hoist, that is where they have to hook up, not to each other, no knots, not on the hoist hook, and not to the hoist tube. The strap hooks have to hook onto the chain links fully,

Again, an actual lifting strap should be your goal. If you are even remotely unsure of using the ratchet, then don't. Not worth the risk to you or your machine. Get a lifting sling.
Yes. I will get the lift sling. Even the one I have in the picture is not a ratchet strap has the hooks on bothe ends. But I used it twice and not going for the third time. The hf one was like less than 10$. Initially I got confused on how was I supposed to use them together. Then I realized they were two options.
 
The straps I have are a bit long. What length should I am for?
I have several lengths but I used 2ea 4'-0" long to lift my mill, 1 to lift and 1 tied back to the column to turn it . these are sold at tractor supply.
 
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My 2 cents worth, The base weight is 300 pounds and the mill is about 1000 pounds Mine was just a bit lighter, the M model is heavier, and as you are aware expensive. A tie down strap isn't rated for lifting, it is designed to stop things from moving when it is static on a flat surface, the weight rating on the strap doesn't mean it will hold that much up, it means that with the friction of the trailer bed at play and 0 slack (ratcheted down tight) that it will hold that much weight static. A tow strap is designed to get the rated weight moving if the conditions of freewheeling exist, not to hold that much weight suspended. After investing that much money I went and purchased lifting straps and the properly rated lifting clevises which are rated to suspend 100% of the rated weight without any other conditions met other than those of the lifting device they are hanging from (the hoist).
 
My 2 cents worth, The base weight is 300 pounds and the mill is about 1000 pounds Mine was just a bit lighter, the M model is heavier, and as you are aware expensive. A tie down strap isn't rated for lifting, it is designed to stop things from moving when it is static on a flat surface, the weight rating on the strap doesn't mean it will hold that much up, it means that with the friction of the trailer bed at play and 0 slack (ratcheted down tight) that it will hold that much weight static. A tow strap is designed to get the rated weight moving if the conditions of freewheeling exist, not to hold that much weight suspended. After investing that much money I went and purchased lifting straps and the properly rated lifting clevises which are rated to suspend 100% of the rated weight without any other conditions met other than those of the lifting device they are hanging from (the hoist).

Me too will do with the lifting straps, just i have to finished remote today and jump to the shop. busy day today.
 
Me too will do with the lifting straps, just i have to finished remote today and jump to the shop. busy day today.
I would really like to see a picture of your mill once you have it set up, I'll share a couple pis of mine with the mods I made if you are interested.
 
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