Pondering This Lathe

Thanks for all the input on this question. I'll be trying to get over there (an hour and a half away) soon as I can to look at the lathe. Unfortunately I will be out of town this week for the job (yes, as old as I am I still work, can't afford to retire just yet, thank you gubment changes) going to Richmond to work on the cracker/cookie plant ('biscuits' for you folks in the UK).

If it works out the Biggest problem I'll have is getting this machine into my 'shop/shed' and maneuvering it around. Next is providing power to the 220, only have 110 in the shop.

Whoa! Don't get ahead of yourself Whyemier, you don't have it yet and may decide not to once you see it.:pondering:
 
Hello Whyemier,

That lathe should weigh in at around 1500 lbs. If you get it up on steel pipe, maybe and inch in diameter and 1/8" walled, you will find that you will be able to roll it around fairly easily; provided that you have a concrete floor. Also, the spindle is likely an LO taper, which is larger and not an LOO taper.

About the 220 volt issue.... what kind of power feed do you have to the shed? Do you simply have an extension cord or do you have an electrical panel with a main breaker for the entire panel and then individual breakers for the circuits. If you have the latter and there is still some room, to get a 220 volt circuit, you simply pop in a 220 volt breaker, according to the motor wattage, and then run a wire from it with two conductors and then the ground to the spot that you want to place your lathe and install the proper outlet according to the amperage of the motor. Wire size will be determined by both the motor wattage and the length of run.

Good luck and let us know how you make out. Maybe take some additional pics of the back side, etc.

Brian :)
 
We have round top Student version in the shop. It was beaten before we got it. Needed something for rough work and not contaminate the new lathe with different metals.

Some issues that do show up are the following.

The feed lever and casting in the apron, rides on the shaft, we found a ton of wear in the casting. The hole that the shaft passes through wear into a oval towards the top. The lever is very loose and can be hard to properly engage.

The belt pulley at the top works loose regularly. I finally had the item off and added a couple more set screws. Ours is a flat belt not twin v-belts.

The crossfeed gear at the top of the apron can get badly worn, due to poor lubrication. It also does not fully engage in our machine and has not done so for a very long time. Maybe never did. The teeth are only half engaged and naturally I had to reverse this gear to use the other side of the teeth.

Overall it is a good machine even if clapped out as it is. I would like to have seen it when new. I do find the controls to be a bit vague on their positions. All the levers are in the same place and poorly marked, maybe it was better marked 40 yrs ago.
Pierre
 
I tried contacting that same listing 3 months ago just to view it but got no response............The price has been dropping steadily so I would offer what is comfortable to you and see if he takes it.
 
Whyemier said:
If it works out the Biggest problem I'll have is getting this machine into my 'shop/shed' and maneuvering it around. Next is providing power to the 220, only have 110 in the shop.
Click to expand...

Is your shop attached to the house or is it separate with it's own panel? If it's part of the house all you would have to do is run a new wire from the main panel and if it's separate you probably already have 220 coming in to the panel. Either way, I'd think that you are just the cost of a new breaker, some wire, some conduit, and an outlet away from having 220 for the lathe.

JMHO

-Ron
 
The shed is separate from the house, possibly 75 to 100 feet away. The landlord ran a line from the house panel to the shed for me, has two 120 circuits coming from a ??30 amp?? satellite box. I believe it cannot be adapted to 220 because I mentioned it to him when he was going to run it and he said it was not possible.???don't know???:dunno:

The floor is wood, its a 12'x18' shed that I adapted as my shop, suits my purposes. I had about 900 sq. ft. in a concrete building sitting in the middle of a field. That all changed when it was broken into and my welder and several other things disappeared. Ce-La-Vie

Anyway, if all works out positively I may also try the 1"pipe as rollers even tho' it is a wooden floor. The problem of the 220 still exists.:confused:
 
Maybe put a different 110 motor in it. Maybe you'll get lucky and the motor it has is convertible from 220 to 110... Anyhow, swapping-out a motor with something different is not too hard.


Ray
 
Hello Whyemier,

Your wooden floor may not pose too many problems with moving your lathe around. It's just easier on concrete. There is nothing that can't be overcome, including the power source.

I don't pretend to know nor can guide you as to what you need to do to provide an adequate source of power, but it can be done. 220 volts is still single phase power that comes into the house. An electric baseboard heater is 220 volts... a water pump is usually 220 volts.... a clothes dryer is 220 volts..... your stove is 220 volts....

Maybe there is not enough available room in the existing house panel to provide the amperage that you require, but normally, a line of some heft would be run from the house panel with a substantial breaker to provide power to the outbuilding. Within the outbuilding would be another service panel that would recieve the power from the house. Within this panel would be a series of seperate circuit breakers for additional circuits.

30 amps from the house panel is doable.... you just need a seperate panel at the shop to make it happen. I'm certain that others with far more experience than I will chime in.

Cheers.... :)

Brian
 
Brain Coral said:
There is nothing that can't be overcome, including the power source.

I don't pretend to know nor can guide you as to what you need to do to provide an adequate source of power, but it can be done. 220 volts is still single phase power that comes into the house. An electric baseboard heater is 220 volts... a water pump is usually 220 volts.... a clothes dryer is 220 volts..... your stove is 220 volts....QUOTE]

We call it "Lock out-Tag Out" at the fire department.
You turn off specific breakers that need to be off while we are working on something.
If you have inadequate power supply. Simply turn off stove, furnace, dryer, sump pump, heater, etc.

Let's agree that the priority is always the lathe.
We just gotta figure out how to sell it to administration.


Get the lathe!!


Daryl
MN
MN
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top