POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

Eyerelief said:
Probably not since I have yet to pay him. We are "negotiating". Ive done everything myself on this project except what the county made me used licensed contractors for such as electrical and plumbing. I found I could not buy the spray foam material as cheap as this contractor had quoted so I let him do it. The other two contractors really like me, this guy, not so much.
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Well, I’m sure he has a license to protect and is insured (and maybe a member of BBB), so you have some negotiating leverage. Good luck.
 
Larry$ said:
I used epoxy on my shop floor long ago. I has held up extremely well. It was from Pittsburg Paint Co. I had them tint it light tan since It was a woodworking shop. 2 coats while the first was still sensitive. It really helped with light reflecting. Much easier to clean also. They sell big long rollers & mesh things to roll the paint uniform on the roller cover. If it seems too slick at first, buff with Scotchbrite. Have your doors open to vent the fumes!
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ChazzC said:
A thought on the floors: rather than Epoxy Paint, take a look into clear, self-leveling Urethane: durable, will show off the faux marble floor, and if the surface is dulled by sanding after it's cured gives a safe surface (if you don't dull it, even safety soles won't keep you from sliding across it when it's wet).
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Eyerelief said:
That was planned, I even polished up the concrete while it was soft to give it that look. Unfortunately, the spray foam contractor didn't cover the floor. Their guns dripped everywhere. I tried everything I could think of to chemically lift the spray foam off the floor. Acetone, MEK, laquer thinner, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, mineral spirits to name a few. Even some special chemical that is used to clean their spray guns. Nothing lifted the dried drops and overspray easily. Carb cleaner seemed to work best, but it still required scraping after it softened up. Wasnt really a viable option for health reasons and its rapid evaporation rate. My research vetted out that there really is nothing that will get the stuff up once dry. You are seeing the floor after I painstakingly scraped the entire floor with single edge razor blades. Thought I had it whipped until I poured water on the floor and the residual from the drips jumped out in the contrast, thousands of them. What dripped out of the guns was the activator. It soaked into the surface of the concrete so short of sanding the entire surface I am forced to paint. I have had good luck with epoxy finishes and this floor has no history of grime or oil that I need to clean out of it. It is scary smooth though.
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I have always used porcelain tiles (has to be porcelain, anything else would break) in my garage... do the install myself. Easy to clean and they can take abuse from all that I do in there... I am talking welding, grinding, etc. The ones I have in the garage in Orlando I even drilled to install the lift.

Here is an old photo when I was installing the MiniMax lift. These are 12"x12" porcelain tiles that I got for 0.78 each at the local hardware store... could not beat that price...

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I always worry about the epoxy getting damage with all the abuse I give the floor... so I was planning tiles again this time around... I did get a quote for epoxy, but I think it will be a waste of money with the abuse...
 
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wachuko said:
I have always used porcelain tiles (has to be porcelain, anything else would break) in my garage... do the install myself. Easy to clean and they can take abuse from all that I do in there... I am talking welding, grinding, etc. The ones I have in the garage in Orlando I even drilled to install the lift.

Here is an old photo when I was installing the MiniMax lift. These are 12"x12" porcelain tiles that I got for 0.78 each at the local hardware store... could not beat that price...

View attachment 455740

I always worry about the epoxy getting damage with all the abuse I give the floor... so I was planning tiles again this time around...
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That is impressive. I was worried that a 3500 pound lathe and a 3200 pound mill would crack porceline. No?
 
I used urethane on my floor, and knowing it would be slippery I added a bag of Valspar traction grip to each batch. It really helps with wet floors, but oil is still slicker than snot. It came out good, but obviously not professional, so my impression is anyone good with this stuff can lay it with a little practice. And you can see how that practice went on two coats each, a quarter of my floor at a time. By the time I was done, I was good at it. Wish I started that way.
 
pontiac428 said:
Um, I don't think a 2200 lb Porsche is considered heavy.

And really, grey? Wachuko, that model was available in brandy wine, how did you miss out?
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I had a fast motorcycle painted brandy wine. While I found the color fascinatingly luxurious it was dangerously close to “arrest me red”. He’s trying to keep it below the radar. You know, like putting law enforcement booster stickers all over your ride or hiding the radar detector.
And I can personally attest that life around the 25th parallel mandates as light a color car as possible. Failure to do so just plain hurts.
 
Red oxidizes faster than other colors.
Weight should not be a problem for the tiles if they were properly beded.
 
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