Preservation

ChazzC said:
I keep a ZeRust tab in the box, which I do for all of my storage needs and has served well in my basement shop, but I also have a dehumidifier.

Here is a helpful video from Mitutoyo, although they are showing ceramic blocks it has some good info including a recommendation for preparation prior to wringing:

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Yeah, good video, i actully watched it last night, thanks.
 
stupoty said:
I use human grade mineral oil on stuff that i handle, for example gaughe blocks and calipers or rulers.

Stu
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Drug store-type mineral oil often has additives in it, like vitamin E. That _probably_ won't promote rust, but it might eventually harden or turn rancid. For that reason, the mineral oil sold for protecting wood cutting boards, butcher block tops and cooking tools with wooden handles has no additives.

I bought some food-grade pure mineral oil from STE Oil Company, if folks can't find the stuff locally. They're a Texas-based company and I have no affiliation with them other than as a customer.
 
homebrewed said:
Drug store-type mineral oil often has additives in it, like vitamin E. That _probably_ won't promote rust, but it might eventually harden or turn rancid. For that reason, the mineral oil sold for protecting wood cutting boards, butcher block tops and cooking tools with wooden handles has no additives.

I bought some food-grade pure mineral oil from STE Oil Company, if folks can't find the stuff locally. They're a Texas-based company and I have no affiliation with them other than as a customer.
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Food grade mineral oil is widely used in heat transfer applications, so it should be available almost everywhere; however, getting it small quantities could be “challenging.” I’d suggest finding out who’s buying it then getting in touch with the maintenance manager to see if you can get some that way.
 
MyLilMule said:
I had someone on the other forum post that he "taken to leaving a camphor block with a corner barely cut open in any drawers that have metrology gear in them."

Found this on Amazon, I'm going to get some myself.

Amazon.com: Premium Refined Camphor Blocks | 10-Pack | 10 Blocks (Each Block Contains 4 Pcs.) | Prevents Rust | Stops Silver Tarnish | Leaves No Residue | Total Package Weight 8.81 oz./250 Grams : Home & Kitchen

Buy Premium Refined Camphor Blocks | 10-Pack | 10 Blocks (Each Block Contains 4 Pcs.) | Prevents Rust | Stops Silver Tarnish | Leaves No Residue | Total Package Weight 8.81 oz./250 Grams: Incense - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
amzn.to

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I also came across this old school trick.
Camphor (the right kind) is pretty hard to find!
I got mine on amazon a few years ago.
I *think* they work… less problems with rust since I started. I just cut an X or slit the plastic. Didn’t unwrap.
Personally I love the smell :drunk:

Amazon: Tower Brand Camphor Blocks

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There have been a lot of great advice so far. I’m not sure anyone mentioned Bieshield yet? That’s pretty good stuff but would leave a film to clean off before use.
I have been using RIG on my stuff. Reasonably priced and really seems to stick well and not ‘dry out’
I learned about RIG from my grandpa in the early 80’s. If it ain't broke, don’t fix it! Lol

Amazon: RIG

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ChazzC said:
Food grade mineral oil is widely used in heat transfer applications, so it should be available almost everywhere; however, getting it small quantities could be “challenging.” I’d suggest finding out who’s buying it then getting in touch with the maintenance manager to see if you can get some that way.
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I bought 4 oz of mineral oil from STE for less than $10. You can get it in viscosities ranging from 70 (very fluid) to 500, on the viscous side.
 
Regarding Camphor, it's not all that expensive. Amazon is selling 150g for $12.40. That's about 5.5 oz. I'd think that could last a long while, depending on the delivery system you use. Letting it diffuse through a closed ziplock bag might work but that's just a guess. If that's not good enough a few pinholes in the bag would do it. Or wrapping it in paper.

Napthalene might work equally well, but the stuff sold as "mothballs" isn't napthalene. It's a chlorinated benzene compound that is suspected to be a carcinogen, based on animal studies (I used Wikipedia as an information source for that). I mention this because searcing for "napthalene" on Amazon brings up scores of hits for mothballs that use the benzene-based compound, 1, 4-Dichlorobenzene, also called paradichlorobenzene or just "para".

Interestingly enough, I DID find a product (on ebay) called "Snake-A-Way" that claims to contain real napthalene.
 
C-Bag said:
My goto is FluidFilm. A can lasts me forever and it’s main ingredient is lanolin so nothing toxic. Trick is to squirt a little on the surface and spread it with your fingers and don’t wipe it off until you go to use it. I use it on all my metrology instruments. I put it on all my cast iron tables that aren’t covered like my drill press and carbide grinder and wipe it off and good as new. And around here everything rusts in a blink of an eye.

VCI paper is also wonderful. I have my laser cut parts wrapped in it and it always arrives perfect. No residue either. Another good one is BullFrog emitters. They are like stick on sponges made for fishing tackle boxes. Stops rust especially in like sealed plastic tubs. Just don’t want them to rest on metal parts as they melt onto the metal.
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I'll second fluid film. I soaked a piece of cotton T shirt, I keep it in a sealed tin. I wipe them down with it, and then I used another piece to put it back in it's spot so my oils (acidic) are not the last thing to touch them. Does a great job so far. The sprayed T shirt does not have to be recharged, it holds onto enough to last and last. I only use that one for tooling, never projects.. For projects I use a different tin soaked shirt. So there's no swarf in the tool grade.
 
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