Punch Press: Recommendations?

Uglydog said:
Very close!
Thanks.

Daryl
MN
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The Di-Acro or Rotex limits you by the station sizes. I don't have one but have used a few different models. The FA Robbins has lots of potential and the price is right, especially with the make offer invite, plus it fills the "Beast" qualifications. I'm not sure what the 15-20 ton comment is about, they're usually rated specific to tonage. Without a photo shot of the front it's difficult to tell if it can be set up for more than single station processes.

Here's a link to the standard arbor presses http://www.dakecorp.com/products/arbor-presses

I recomment the ratchet or compound type if you choose this direction. I have a 3-ton import single lever that I inherited that takes a cheater to get much action. My recommendation would be the Robbins or similar model especially if you apply tool and die machining to get the **How did you do that** questions. Plus, it's nice to hit the lever and get the single hit with the Beasty Speed. I have a 7.5 ton Benchmaster set up to punch 4 holes (pretty simple) which I haven't used in a decade that I would offer up if you were closer. I'm sure there are presses at good prices, much closer to you. If the press has been abused it's usually scrap metal because a repair usually involves the frame.

Russ
 
Daryl, I had used a kick press similar to this for years to punch out aluminum chassis. I still have it and might consider parting with it. It was disassembled for storage in my barn.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FAMCO-3-3-4...CH-PRESS-18-sheet-metal-shaping-/292046272562
I also have a small bench mount inertial press, about 1/2t, I believe and a large inertial press, something like 30t, made by Blow in Canada. PM me if you might be interested.
 
Where are the wear points?
I'm guessing anything that articulates, clearly anything which has been repaired.
And watch for alignment issues and good bearings/bushings?

Daryl
MN
 
The ram has slides with adjustable gibbs normally. Check the play on the rod to the crank.
Cycle it several times to make sure the dog works as it should and kicks out after each stroke.
There's not really much to them and as long as the crank isn't worn out they're pretty easy to work on.
Check the Flywheel to make sure the bearings aren't worn out on it also.
 
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Dennys502 pretty much covered everything on the topside. The amount of wear in the rod, crank and bearing come into play when you are adjusting the depth the ram will travel, especially travel up when the punch contacts the die. As with all things in metal working the clearances or tolerances we're working to are key. Unless the topside is really sloppy, you can compensate with the ram adjustment. It's been so long since I used my press that I forgot how the ram attached to the punch and die.

In regards to Roper-Whitney; They have been around a long time so it means they have changed hands a few times. Their primary market is the HVAC sheetmetal industry, so their tolerances tend to be on the sloppy side and also they have limited selection. Standard punches and dies for precision sheet metal punching come with .005" and .012" clearance for the punch. Here's a link to Wilson as a resource to what's available in the market, of course not saying you're getting this serious. https://www.wilsontool.com

I included Wilson because they supply the CNC precision side of the industry. With that said, this is the critical side of the punch press operation, where tolerances and clearances determine product quality. I googled bolster plate, which is what the die shoe sits on with everything critical betweent there and the ram connection. https://www.google.com/search?q=pun...QsAQIIA&biw=1280&bih=894#imgrc=tKcQft6vSWIyFM:

I think around 23 rows down in the images, on the left side is the typical setup (same as mine) to attach your punch and die configuration.
 
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I have a Rotex 18 and a Thor 12 - and if what you want to do is make washers then my advice would be to spend 1/4 the money and buy a box or two of every size washer available. Reliably positioning a small coupon in either of these punches is a time consuming annoyance. I occasionally have to enlarge the 1/4" hole in a 1/2" brass washer to 5/16" and they usually end up funky or non-concentric due to the limited access to the punch area and the difficulty of seeing what you are doing. Hmmm . . . now that I wrote this I think I could pretty easily make a jig to hold the washer and precisely center/align it under the Rotex punch using the punch itself as an aligning pin. (The Rotex has enough clearance to get a jig into it) Thanks for the kick in the butt!
 
Any idea what size you're looking for Daryl ?
There's a small 1 ton listed on ebay.
Benchmaster Machanical Punch Press OBI 1 Ton 1/4HP 3/4"Stroke 2-1/8" Throat 115V.
 
gr8legs said:
I have a Rotex 18 and a Thor 12 - and if what you want to do is make washers then my advice would be to spend 1/4 the money and buy a box or two of every size washer available. Reliably positioning a small coupon in either of these punches is a time consuming annoyance. I occasionally have to enlarge the 1/4" hole in a 1/2" brass washer to 5/16" and they usually end up funky or non-concentric due to the limited access to the punch area and the difficulty of seeing what you are doing. Hmmm . . . now that I wrote this I think I could pretty easily make a jig to hold the washer and precisely center/align it under the Rotex punch using the punch itself as an aligning pin. (The Rotex has enough clearance to get a jig into it) Thanks for the kick in the butt!
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If you have a table on your turret press you could just clamp a stop to it like this.
Just line it up with the punch that is the diameter of your washer.

turret punch.jpg

Denny
 
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